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rear blocks or springs?

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Drobb's_85

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Nov 15, 2007
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Rowlett, Tx
I want to lift my 85 K10 3 inches with a Tuff Country kit..I'm having trouble deciding whether to get rear blocks or springs. I'm 15 and plan on asking for some money and tools this Christmas so I can do it myself.. The kit that comes with rear blocks is very enticing, its about 300 dollars cheaper, but I really worry about one popping out. I will wheel it from time to time but it will mostly stay on the street. Some people have told me the blocks will be fine as long as I'm not wheeling 24/7. What do yall think? Axle wrap worrys me also..Its got a tired old 305 and 3.42 gears..Also, how hard will it be to put this lift on? I will only have basic tools, no air tools..Thanks.
 
Get the springs if you can. The lift is pretty simple. It will take you a couple days with hand tools. Start spraying the crap out of the steering arm right now with PB so it pops off a little easier..... Have fun! And welcome to CK5!!
 
i got mine when i was 14, im 16 now..

either way, i know what it is like, i got a rear block, its not that bad.. i did all the work with hand tools as well..be safe, be smart. it should tkae a weekend, don't forgot any steering fixes, brake lines. you will need to re-gear to 4.10 most likely.

once you start, be prepared to be broke forever.
 
thanks for the replies..I actually do plan on putting some 33's on it whenever these wear out (31's)..Habitat did you get any axle wrap with the blocks?
 
3.42 gears...and obviously bigger tires, it was a given, i guess the younger minds think alike! a little, my truck is no Cadillac so i couldn't care either way.:doah:

you could always link it but thats where it gets tricky. at your height you won't see too big of a difference.. oh and once you get the new tires and the lift make sure you get an alignment :wink1:
 
youll be fine with the blocks for now. probably wont need to regear for 33s and you can fit em with no lift probably. i doubt youll have too much trouble with the steering arm, you could always just get the "s" shaped draglink some guy has for sale here in the FS forum. you can get longer brake lines from a nineties c1500 that are still rubber and like 5 inches longer for cheap.
also gabriel shocks for that size lift can be had very cheap as well.
get new ubolts and triple torque them to spec. once when you install them, again after around the block and then again and again until they are all torqued to 150+ foot pounds.


oh and im still hand toolin it after a few years, it really easy to lift these trucks. really easy.
 
Why not do a 2.5" shackle flip in the back? no more blocks and cheaper then springs. The rivets would be a pain with hand tools but it is doable.

I put my lift on with hand tools when I was 16 not hard at all. Get some good jack stands though they will make it safer and easier
 
A shackle flip is better than springs or blocks. You get the height, but not the stiffness of more arch in the springs, or the wrap you get from blocks.
 
i have a 6 inch superlift and i have a 5.5 inch block in the back and i treat my truck pretty brutal and everything seems fine
 
Not to hijack, but I have a similar question. My 89 Sub has 10" Superlift front springs, 8" Superlift rears with a 2" block. It rides extremely harsh, there is no way you could ever drink an open bevearge while driving. Would a small shackle flip(2.5") in place of the blocks be a good, inexpensive way to do the following:

1) cut down on axle wrap
2) improve the ride quality
3) improve flex

Or is the only way to do this to change springs?
 
I would buy tools instead.

I have been in your exact situation when I was a kid and looking back, I should have spent money on tools for a few years and then start lifting the truck.

That will give you time to maybe find a used lift for cheaper.
That is of course you know someone that could install it or help you that HAD tools already.


I can just see you getting right in the middle of it and not having the proper tool, like a BFH or a BFW and then you are stuck w/o a vehicle, the money to buy a the tool. What now?
 
hmmm yall make some pretty good points..Now I'm kinda leaning toward the blocks, I could keep the blocks for a while then do a shackle flip after I get some better tools.. 3 inch blocks cant be that bad can they? I'd keep them tight..I also heard that axle wrap isnt much of a problem if you have a tired old motor with stock gears..But heres a really stupid question for ya, how do I know how much I'm torquing the bolts? Like 150lb ft on the u-bolts, how will I know when I'm there? Thanks again..
 
Drobb's_85 said:
hmmm yall make some pretty good points..Now I'm kinda leaning toward the blocks, I could keep the blocks for a while then do a shackle flip after I get some better tools.. 3 inch blocks cant be that bad can they? I'd keep them tight..I also heard that axle wrap isnt much of a problem if you have a tired old motor with stock gears..But heres a really stupid question for ya, how do I know how much I'm torquing the bolts? Like 150lb ft on the u-bolts, how will I know when I'm there? Thanks again..
Click to expand...
Get a torque wrench
 
SLO C5 said:
Not to hijack, but I have a similar question. My 89 Sub has 10" Superlift front springs, 8" Superlift rears with a 2" block. It rides extremely harsh, there is no way you could ever drink an open bevearge while driving. Would a small shackle flip(2.5") in place of the blocks be a good, inexpensive way to do the following:

1) cut down on axle wrap
2) improve the ride quality
3) improve flex

Or is the only way to do this to change springs?
Click to expand...


it can only help..

and for the buy tools and everything, it doesn't take much to lift it..

i did it with basic hand tools that i had in my garage, which is a very small selection!
 
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