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rear brake removal, please help

muddy ballz

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May 15, 2007
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miami, fl
I have an 87 blazer that is used in the mud only, trailered to and from the mud pit. I put a 14 bolt in the rear that had the brakes removed. Rather than going through the hassle of getting all new rear brakes i decided to just bypass them. I capped the rear brake line and bled the system. Unfortunately, the pedal still went straight to the floor . I figured that the master cylinder had possibly gone bad, so i replaced it after bench bleeding the new one. I then capped off the rear line directly on the master cylinder. Still no pressure after a thorough bleeding. I then moved on to the proportioning valve. I removed it and put a tee going to both front disc brakes. After yet another thorough bleeding, I still have no pressure. Does anyone have any idea what could be going on??
 
Why don't you just put a rear disc on there. It isn't that expensive
 
ya, i would do disc. its not bad at all,especially if u have an old 3/4 ton front axle to use. then u just need the brackets and maybe new pads if u dont really care about new stuff seeing that its just a mud toy
 
I'm thinking the rear circuit on the master has to be loaded. I had all kinds of trouble with the brakes on my sixpack and replumbed and replaced stuff until I was blue in the face, and as I recall, you can't just block off one side.

Hate to say it, but I'm thinking you need rear brakes ;)

-- A
 
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