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rear brakes help on 14 bolt?!?!?!

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backwoodsblazerk5

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Ok so I did a one ton swap on my dd k5.

One of the wheel cylinders is leaking and ruined the shoes on the rear so I decided since I am already gonna have it apart, might as well replace the brakes.
I ran into a problem....I have no clue what I am doing when it comes to a 14 bolt. The stock 10 bolt brakes were simple but I honestly have no clue.

How do I take the drums off?? I know you have to pull the axle shafts out but thats where I got hung up. I just dont know how to get past that retaining nut on there or whatever its called?
Any help? Full description and the right terminology would help me out tons!:D

Will post up pics of the swap soon
 
After the axle shaft is removed there is a retainer and locking nut along with a soft washer in between the two of them. You will need a 6 prong hub socket to remove them. you can get the socket at just about any parts store, and then a pick or needle nose pliers works really good to remove the washer that is in between them. Once all three are out you might have to take a hammer to the hub to get it to slide off the spindle, if not it will want to come off once the last nut is removed but be careful though not to drop the heavy hub on the end of the spindle or else thread damage could happen, and be ready to lift with your legs not your back! :waytogo:
 
Thanks THRILLBILLY. Its nice to see another fellow texan on here.
I will get on the brakes tomorrow hopefully.
 
My 14ff wasn't quite like that...

I pulled the axle shafts, then there was a snap ring wrapped around the end of the spindle, once that was out there was a little piece of keystock that slid right out with pliers.
Then the spindle nut came off (just one of them).

Once that was off the drum was essentially free. My brakes were so worn into the drums that I needed to back the adjuster off to shrink the shoes in and get the drums to slide off. It worked on one side but the other side I had to just use a puller to yank the drum off with the shoes and everything because the adjuster wouldn't back off.
 
backwoodsblazerk5 said:
Thanks THRILLBILLY. Its nice to see another fellow texan on here.
I will get on the brakes tomorrow hopefully.
Click to expand...

Yessir! Hope everything works easy for you! Gummed up brakes can suck so bad.

Avery4jc said:
My 14ff wasn't quite like that...

I pulled the axle shafts, then there was a snap ring wrapped around the end of the spindle, once that was out there was a little piece of keystock that slid right out with pliers.
Then the spindle nut came off (just one of them).

Once that was off the drum was essentially free. My brakes were so worn into the drums that I needed to back the adjuster off to shrink the shoes in and get the drums to slide off. It worked on one side but the other side I had to just use a puller to yank the drum off with the shoes and everything because the adjuster wouldn't back off.
Click to expand...

Yeah I have never seen one of these setups before but heard of them. Forgot that that style wasps around! My 14 bolt had to come apart the same way it was in bad shape. Those drums filled with all the pads and everything makes them even more of a pain!
 
Since your there doing your brakes etc, make sure to check the bearings, races and change the inner seal. Theres nothing like having to take it all back apart because the seal needed replaced and the brakes do not like the gear fluid.

If you have the style with one nut, a key, and retainer the nut gets tightened to 50 ft lbs (while spinning the drum) then backed off and re-tightened to 35 ft lbs (while spinning the drum) and then insert the key and put retainer on. Some people say tighten the spindle nut to the next key hole slot, some say loosen. I have always loosened and never had trouble.

I would think the other style with double nuts the inner nut would follow the same torque procedure...If im wrong Im sure someone will chime in with knowledge!

Have fun!:D
 
Appreciate all the input, got one side done this afternoon. but yeah it was the nut with the little key in it. I will eventially go ahead and do the bearings but they were still in good shape and so was the seal so I just slapped a little bit of grease in there and took it for a spin. What was weird though is the spring hardware kit didnt come with 2 springs I needed. Not sure on the terminology but one was for the rear bracket that sits on top of the rearward shoe and the little spring that sits in between the shoe and the bracket. I went ahead a re use them but I feel trashy for doing it when I replaced all the other springs.
It was all autozone and oreillys carried and they didnt have those springs unless you bought the 30 dollar kit with all the brackets and mounts.
Anyways, I appreciate all the input guys it helped a ton

The first time I tried to do it I just looked at it and said "I have no clue what Im doing...off to CK5 with some questions!!":whistle:
 
backwoodsblazerk5 said:
Appreciate all the input, got one side done this afternoon. but yeah it was the nut with the little key in it. I will eventially go ahead and do the bearings but they were still in good shape and so was the seal so I just slapped a little bit of grease in there and took it for a spin. What was weird though is the spring hardware kit didnt come with 2 springs I needed. Not sure on the terminology but one was for the rear bracket that sits on top of the rearward shoe and the little spring that sits in between the shoe and the bracket. I went ahead a re use them but I feel trashy for doing it when I replaced all the other springs.
It was all autozone and oreillys carried and they didnt have those springs unless you bought the 30 dollar kit with all the brackets and mounts.
Anyways, I appreciate all the input guys it helped a ton

The first time I tried to do it I just looked at it and said "I have no clue what Im doing...off to CK5 with some questions!!":whistle:
Click to expand...

Those 2 springs the kit didnt come with are for the parking brake mechanism. You really dont need to replace them as they get very little wear (unless they are broken).

You said you packed it with grease, do you mean the bearings? The bearings are lubricated from the diff. fluid, you would usually dip or pump the bearings with diff fluid when re-assembling.
 
backwoodsblazerk5 said:
Appreciate all the input, got one side done this afternoon. but yeah it was the nut with the little key in it. I will eventially go ahead and do the bearings but they were still in good shape and so was the seal so I just slapped a little bit of grease in there and took it for a spin. What was weird though is the spring hardware kit didnt come with 2 springs I needed. Not sure on the terminology but one was for the rear bracket that sits on top of the rearward shoe and the little spring that sits in between the shoe and the bracket. I went ahead a re use them but I feel trashy for doing it when I replaced all the other springs.
It was all autozone and oreillys carried and they didnt have those springs unless you bought the 30 dollar kit with all the brackets and mounts.
Anyways, I appreciate all the input guys it helped a ton

The first time I tried to do it I just looked at it and said "I have no clue what Im doing...off to CK5 with some questions!!":whistle:
Click to expand...

Yeah the brake rebuilding kit in their system doesn't come with those springs, I don't understand why either. I had to buy the more expensive kit to get them, and IIRC it came with the K30 kits with 13.5" brakes, but if you asked for a 3/4 ton FF with 11.5" brakes it didn't... :dunno: glad to help and glad you got it fixed!
 
THRILLBILLY said:
Yeah the brake rebuilding kit in their system doesn't come with those springs, I don't understand why either. I had to buy the more expensive kit to get them, and IIRC it came with the K30 kits with 13.5" brakes, but if you asked for a 3/4 ton FF with 11.5" brakes it didn't... :dunno: glad to help and glad you got it fixed!
Click to expand...

I just got the kit for my K30 with the 13.5 brakes and no luck, they are still sold separate. They do it just to make more cash!
 
Shoot you were already prob have the cost in converting to disk on the 14ff. I would have done that and not worried about brakes for about 60,000 miles. Oh Im here in Texas also.
 
Burbanator said:
Shoot you were already prob have the cost in converting to disk on the 14ff. I would have done that and not worried about brakes for about 60,000 miles. Oh Im here in Texas also.
Click to expand...

Some guys like to keep the factory e-brake setup. The eldo calipers are pricey and the e-brake is a headache by most reviews.
 
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