rear disc brake proportioning, hydroboost to 14boltff

[stevos67k20]

i am planning on putting a hydroboost on my 67 k20 very soon(i need one more adapter for my Russel lines) and a TSM rear brake convo on my 14boltff axle. on my master cylinder now i have a proportioning valve for disc/drum applications. i know this will not be compatible with my near future disc/disc setup. SO.....i bought an adjustable proportiong valve from Russel as well. Where the heck do i put it? do i get rid of my big proportioning valve and just use the Russel adjustable one to decrease flow to the rear brakes? or do i keep the big proportioning valve and put the Russle valve after it, going to the rear brakes. the Russel instuctions are in greek to me, so they are useless. my dad doenst know, and i am very new at brakes,( i would like to bypass the old brake proportioning valve and go direct from the MC to the front brakes, and restrict the rear brakes from the MC with my new valve, but then again, i dont know anything). Any info will help me, thanks in advance off road cumminuty. late...

 

[sweetk30]

stock valve is tee for front only and rear is regulated. by pass it and run tee in frt and your adj valve in rear. i mounted mine on a custom bracket on the master/booster for easy acssess.

why the tsm kit? vary pricey . did you get it for the ebrake calipers?

 

[stevos67k20]

yes i bought it for the e brake calipers. its only about 150 dollars more and its very good insurance that it will work, being that its coming from one place. it doenst feel right getting stuff on ebay, different websites, and other stores like that when it comes down to brakes. i just want to get it and be done with it, and know for sure that i am getting the right parts. to make sure:

Keep the original for front
bypass original for rear, add adjustable to rear

sounds good to me. will i need all new Brake lines or can i bend the ones i have?

 

[sweetk30]

i would plan on some line work. and dont even need to keep origanal unit. just go buy a tee fitting and be gone with the old thing. thats what i did.

 

[stevos67k20]

why do i need a tee for the front?
the Russel valve has an IN and OUT, i thinks its just meant to restrict flow to the rear. i'm lost. heres a lame pic. { I=front brake line form MC, 1=rear line from MC}

MC\/-------Hydro \/
(0000000)---(0000) I firewall
I frnt...1rear
I....T?....1
I.............1Russel valve
I..............1
I to front.... 1to rear wheel
wheel

is that correct? do i "T" so the front and rear brake lines are connected? that would make sense i guess. and then after the "T" i can add the porp valve on the rear.

 

[sweetk30]

master out 1 line to frame then in to stock valve. then output split to 2 line to each frt wheel.

if you remove that stocker you will need a tee fitting to do the splitting.

 

[stevos67k20]

here my stock prop valve

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k193/stevenk20/dc2a372b.jpg

 

[stevos67k20]

heres what i got:

 

[ntsqd]

What he said. With the adjustable you don't need or want the OE prop valve so remove it.

Somis, as in Somis, CA as in just around the corner from Ventura?

 

[stevos67k20]

any suggestions? should i buy a prop valve for disc/disc?

 

[stevos67k20]

What he said. With the adjustable you don't need or want the OE prop valve so remove it.

Somis, as in Somis, CA as in just around the corner from Ventura?

yeah somis CA, you familiar?? i'm intersted, this is very rare...... not many people have heard of this town.

i still dont get how i would need a "T" if i remove the old Prop valve though...
wouldn't it just go to the "T" on the frame and to the wheels?

 

[dremu]

any suggestions? should i buy a prop valve for disc/disc?

I wouldn't, no. The adjustable on the rear should be plenty.

I've just finished doing disc/disc on my C30 -- admittedly a crewcab dually, so different weight distribution than "normal" trucks -- but so far I've found I turn my adjustable to about 1/4 of the flow (i.e. blocking 3/4), and I've got good brake feel. Haven't had a chance to tow with it yet, mind you, but it's better than it was with drums, plus I just find discs to be easier to maintain, check, and care for

Anyway, to your Q, I removed the prop valve, just put a tee up front in its place, and the adjustable prop valve in the rear line only.

Your factory valve may not have the tee in it that the newer ones too, but yeah, basically it goes from the rear reservoir on the master, to the front brakes ... and from the *front* reservoir into the adjustable valve, to the rear brakes.

Make sense?

-- A

 

[stevos67k20]

since i am really retarted...does anyone have a pic? sorry.....

 

[stevos67k20]

i just had an epiphany....get rid of the old crap......run from the MC to the front tires where it "T's"............put the adjustable valve on the rear line....i totally get it now, thanks guys. i'll post a pic when i am done so everyone like me can see.

 

[ntsqd]

yeah somis CA, you familiar?? i'm intersted, this is very rare...... not many people have heard of this town.

i still dont get how i would need a "T" if i remove the old Prop valve though...
wouldn't it just go to the "T" on the frame and to the wheels?

[hijack] Live in Ventura, used to work in Camarillo, have friends in Cam, used to have a friend in Simi, even got a bee hive truck stuck in an avocado grove once in Somis. Somis Hardware used to sell Spud Guns way back when they were a mystery. ROP teacher had a place up against the south foot of South Mtn. Friend of a friend had a car barn near the southern end of Balcom Cyn Rd. Yep, that Somis.[/hijack]

Sounds like your epiphany has it right. Front brake just used the OE prop valve (called a "Combo Valve" in some literature) as a 'T' fitting with a tap for the brake balance switch.