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Rear disc brakes, burning up pads!

highrlr

1/2 ton status
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Nov 29, 2004
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I did a rear disc brake swap on my 14bff under my '89 K5 about a year ago. The truck see' very few miles other than in the dirt. Anyway, I already ripped through one set of pads in my caddy calipers, they were brand new when i installed them. I think this is due to the fact that the master cylinder is set up to keep a small amount of pressure on the stock rear drums? Is there something that I can do to modify the stock master cylinder to get rid of this?
 
caddy rear calipershave to have the e brake attached to adjust the pads. if no e brake the pads do not rotate out to keep proper adjustment. if e bake is attached , check to see if it is too tight.
 
You're correct in thinking that the factory propvalve is keeping some presure on the calipers. I've heard of some people modifying theirs...I'll see if I can find a link. I know I've read about doing it, but can't rember exactly what needs to be done. Maybe it was over at Pirate?

FWIW: The pads on my rear discs wear faster then the fronts on my K5. But since I've literaly got 12 pairs of extra pads....I'm not to concerend about it.
 
Summitt sells them at a reasonable price.(I see I got a little dislexic when I wrote the first time) HA HA
 
You're correct in thinking that the factory propvalve is keeping some presure on the calipers. I've heard of some people modifying theirs...I'll see if I can find a link. I know I've read about doing it, but can't rember exactly what needs to be done. Maybe it was over at Pirate?

FWIW: The pads on my rear discs wear faster then the fronts on my K5. But since I've literaly got 12 pairs of extra pads....I'm not to concerend about it.


i run stock master and stock proportioning valve. dont have any problem wearing out the rears. lever for the ebrake keeps the puck from rotating by it shelf.
 
i run stock master and stock proportioning valve. dont have any problem wearing out the rears. lever for the ebrake keeps the puck from rotating by it shelf.


I'm running the stock master cylinder and proportioning valve also (mines an 87). But I'm using regular front calipers...no e-brake. I'm guessing that a problem like this will vary from truck to truck. Some people have this problem, some don't. Others have problems with the stock proportioning valve, others don't. Same thing with the master cylinder. I think it all boils down to how worn out the parts are and what the driver thinks feels good.


To the OP, if you install an adjustable proportioning valve, you will need to disable/remove/bypass the factory one.
 
On my 89 blazer i did the rear disc swap about 6 years ago and i'm running the stock master and prop valve and just now i'm needing to redo the brakes (pads are finally wearing down) and i DD this rig.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. Its not a huge deal that its running through them, since they are cheap, and this is primarily a "dirt only" truck. Im not sure I want to do a proportioning valve since im fairly happy with the stock proportions.

I do have ebrake levers, but have never looked into installing them. I guess I thought I would need an e-brake, and that is why I went with the caddy callipers. But now that I have had them on for a year or better, I havent felt the need for one? Maybe I will look into hooking them up though, just to see if it cures my problem?
 
The levers need to be on even if you don't hook up a cable. The lever actually keeps the shaft in the corrrect position. You're also very lucky if the calipers haven't leaked at the shaft location as there is also a seal there that the lever keeps tension against the caliper so they don't leak.
 
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