Looking for more real world insight on the 2 options for my drive line angle issues.
Talked with Tom Woods and they recommend that using a double cardan joint with slip yoke at the end is a bad idea. States old tech and weight at back end of transfer case can cause wear on bearings.
So I am confused as some people say with my angles to use a double cardan joint with slip yoke and some say SYE from Tom Woods http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE_detail.asp
K5 is 87 350 TBI 700R4 208
14 bolt FF
4 inch EZ rides in front
DIY4X shackle flip in rear
Going to run 35's
Not sure any more info needed here
Angles that I know right now on bottom of transmission pan 0
drive shaft tube 20.1
rear bolts on side of rear diff cover 79.1 This is a 14 bolt full float.
pinion pointed up
rear u joint and pinion pretty level to one another angled up
All the binding is going on at the slip yoke.
So can I can get more real world insight from you guys?
Truck is not a rock crawler!
Talked with Tom Woods and they recommend that using a double cardan joint with slip yoke at the end is a bad idea. States old tech and weight at back end of transfer case can cause wear on bearings.
So I am confused as some people say with my angles to use a double cardan joint with slip yoke and some say SYE from Tom Woods http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE_detail.asp
K5 is 87 350 TBI 700R4 208
14 bolt FF
4 inch EZ rides in front
DIY4X shackle flip in rear
Going to run 35's
Not sure any more info needed here
Angles that I know right now on bottom of transmission pan 0
drive shaft tube 20.1
rear bolts on side of rear diff cover 79.1 This is a 14 bolt full float.
pinion pointed up
rear u joint and pinion pretty level to one another angled up
All the binding is going on at the slip yoke.
So can I can get more real world insight from you guys?
Truck is not a rock crawler!
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