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Rear Driveline angle (6" lift) .... 11.6 degrees off

garydan

garydan

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I went with a six inch lift out back by getting the DIY4X shackle flip with 6" shackles (in addition to the older 2" lift springs I had in there from a previous owner).

Well my angles are way off for my driveshaft. I'm running a 14-bolt FF with a 208 transfer case with the Slip Yoke.

Angle measured at the transfer case = 73.8 degrees (I have a craftsman level with a nice digital readout). Angle at the 14-bolt yoke = 85.4 degrees. This leaves me with a requirement for a 12(11.6) degree shim.

I can't find a 12-degree shim anywhere. How can I make this setup work? Do I need to stop wasting my time and pony-up for a new cv driveshaft?
 
Maybe you will have to run a cv in the end . Ive seen up to 10 degree shims.
Why not cut the perches off , get new ones and weld them in at the angle of your choosing? Then determine if you need a cv.
 
DeviousK5 said:
Maybe you will have to run a cv in the end . Ive seen up to 10 degree shims.
Why not cut the perches off , get new ones and weld them in at the angle of your choosing? Then determine if you need a cv.
Click to expand...

Not everyone has a welder and a nice cutoff torch laying around :wink1:

Here are some pictures of what I'm working with....

small_DSC08301.JPG

small_DSC08302.JPG

small_DSC08303.JPG

small_DSC08300.JPG



And check this out :eek1: (Look at the crossmember support bolts and spacers on each side?!??!)

small_DSC08304.JPG


small_DSC08305.JPG
 
garydan said:
And check this out :eek1: (Look at the crossmember support bolts and spacers on each side?!??!)

small_DSC08304.JPG


small_DSC08305.JPG
Click to expand...
1st picture is correct, second is not. Definitly looks like you need to get a double-cv driveshaft. pinion angle looks pretty good, maybe move it a tad down
 
Taking a look at my front driveshaft angle in the pics above, I'm wondering if a transfer case drop will help the front as well? Because ideally the front pinion angle should be pointing up a bit more. If I drop the transfer case, won't that angle be more ideal, while also helping the rear? I've read that it makes the front angle worse, but I'm not understanding that right now??
 
I dont think that dropping the case would be ideal for the front because it will be pivoting on your motor mounts giving you an even more extreme angle.
 
GaryDan,

Remember....even a CV-driveshaft is going to require some kind of correction.

The t-case output can be almost any angle, but the u-joint on the axle side is supposed to be at 0 degrees. Basically you want it pointing straight at the t-case output with no angularity in that end.

If your pinion is rotated down (which yours appears to be) you'll still need to do something to get it pointed more upright even with a CV-style driveshaft solution.

What about throwing a slightly longer shackle on the rear springs? Are you running a shackleflip? That might by you a few degrees of upward rotation... :thinking:


:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
GaryDan,

Remember....even a CV-driveshaft is going to require some kind of correction.

The t-case output can be almost any angle, but the u-joint on the axle side is supposed to be at 0 degrees. Basically you want it pointing straight at the t-case output with no angularity in that end.

If your pinion is rotated down (which yours appears to be) you'll still need to do something to get it pointed more upright even with a CV-style driveshaft solution.

What about throwing a slightly longer shackle on the rear springs? Are you running a shackleflip? That might by you a few degrees of upward rotation... :thinking:


:usaflag:
Click to expand...


I don't have a CV shaft yet, I'm looking for a solution with my normal shaft right now. So solutions to make the angle ideal for a CV shaft don't matter yet... until I eventually realize that is what I need :laugh: I do have a shackle flip with longer shackles (hence... my current problem where I need to move the pinion angle down for a single cardan shaft) Should I even bother looking for a 12 degree shim or just go with something like this: http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/208TransferCaseGMDesign-32Spline.html
 
Ok, let me give you some info that might help you. The t-case output and the pinion centerline need to be the same angle and the U-joint working angle should be 3* or less at each end with a conventional driveshaft. When you lift a short wheelbased rig it is impossible to have both the t-case and pinion at the same angle while maintaining the 3* or less U-joint working angle. So now you have to compromise and it is best to make both the t-case output and pinion centerline the same as this is what cancels out any vibrations from happening. Now about the 3* working angle, the more you have above the 3* anlge will decrease the life of the U-joint. I highly suggest you do a CV driveshaft to eliminate any vibrations and retain the expected life of the U-joints. Until you can afford to do a CV driveshaft I would suggest dropping the t-case down 1" and then shim the rear axle appropiately (keep in mind it should be down by 2* of the t-case to account for axle wrap under normal driving conditions).
 
You need to stop avoiding doing the correct thing to fix your rear angle problem. Yes, you could shim the pinion down 12 degrees...and then spend every third weekend replacing U-joints at both ends. They're not designed to run at those kind of angles for any length of time.

Get a CV shaft, make the slight adjustmant at the pinion and move on. It appears a 2 degree shim at the pinion with a CV shaft would make things perfect.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
You need to stop avoiding doing the correct thing to fix your rear angle problem. Yes, you could shim the pinion down 12 degrees...and then spend every third weekend replacing U-joints at both ends. They're not designed to run at those kind of angles for any length of time.

Get a CV shaft, make the slight adjustmant at the pinion and move on. It appears a 2 degree shim at the pinion with a CV shaft would make things perfect.

Rene
Click to expand...
Well said :thumb:
 
judging by your sig line im gonna say you have a pretty built up truck. I would definitly do the SYE
 
i think the new tom woods sye kit is pretty cool, i dont think ive seen anyone here run it yet.
 
That price looks pretty good, considering it includeing a CV rear shaft. As long as you get your core charge money back...

Cheaper than swapping to a 241, adding a SYE kit and buying a CV shaft anyways.

Rene
 
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