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Rear Driveshaft... how far is too far?
- Thread starter Vetteman61
- Start date
Vetteman61
Registered Member
....
just to clarify, it was not me who responded to that. Just making double sure, becuase I'm super grateful to this forum. ColoradoK5.com .. best... invention...ever... (well, maybe right under K5's themselves)
iwaxmyjimmy said:
just to clarify, it was not me who responded to that. Just making double sure, becuase I'm super grateful to this forum. ColoradoK5.com .. best... invention...ever... (well, maybe right under K5's themselves)
Oh, you haven't said anything out of the way.
nope...welcome aboard...iwaxmyjimmy and I just scew around. 
Avery4jc said:nope...welcome aboard...iwaxmyjimmy and I just scew around.
Thats just one of them things one straight guy doesn't tell another straight guy.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
In Avery's defense, that rear shaft does look it was too far out, even before the lift. Adding the lift just made it worse.
And no, it doesn't look either safe or durable to me.
And no, it doesn't look either safe or durable to me.
Then buy some zero rates and move the axle forward to take up some of the slip yoke.
that would work but it would also require a lot more work and money compared to just doing that tc drop or getting the d-shaft lengthened...
I mean I know it would be maybe $150-$200 or so to get it lengthened but then it would be done and you would never have to worry about it again...stuff like that is a worthy investment in my opinion...
I mean I know it would be maybe $150-$200 or so to get it lengthened but then it would be done and you would never have to worry about it again...stuff like that is a worthy investment in my opinion...
Installing a set of zero rates aint nothing. Loosen U-bolts, place zero rate on top of spring perch, and bolt it back together. And they are only $40 plus shipping.
Yeah...but everyone says replace the u-bolts while you are down there...thats another $50 for the rear...
Vetteman61
Registered Member
Uboltage
woudln't adding yet another additon to the blocks raise the back end even yet further, because the 4 inch lift was almost too big for the (free 32's) or 33's I one day hope to run.
woudln't adding yet another additon to the blocks raise the back end even yet further, because the 4 inch lift was almost too big for the (free 32's) or 33's I one day hope to run.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
Yes, but the zero rates have off-center holes so you can move the axle forward or back.
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
O.K., THIS THREAD IS RIDICULOUS TO READ 
!!
!!
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Uh you have to remove the spring center pin and add the zero rate to the pack with the supplied hardware and then retighten the ubolts. If you had just put the ubolts on less than a month or two ago I would not replace them. But if they had been on a while I would replace them.
Ira
Yes you need to lengthen your driveshaft. I'd guess you're lucky if you have 2" engaged. That's probably why you've got a leak.Vetteman61 said:apparently my rear drive shaft picture, (the most important one) didn't show up. here it is.
I had to have my rear driveshaft lengthened. I just found a rear shaft out of a long bed truck, and had it shortened. Cost me $40 for the shaft and $140 to shorten the shaft and that includes them installing 2 new joints. The actual shortening cost $85 on the itemized bill.
In hindsight I wonder if it would have been cheaper to just lengthen the original shaft.
I just assumed and never asked...The front looks borderline too. Front shafts typically have about 2.5-3" of slip.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Here is how mine look just for reference.
Ira
Ira
Brocky
1/2 ton status
Need help on this topic please.
I have to get my shaft added too forsure and quickly. I rear ended a new Subura the other day in a snow storm and now have no car and my woman is about to born my second child and I need to get the K5 mobile asap.
My driveshaft on the rear is roughly 8 inches too short since I changed over from th350 to sm465. Now right now I cant jack my truck because my k5 is supported for much needed floor repairs. Now my transfer case was a 203 and now is a 205 with a factory SYE. So the slip is on my shaft. I need to get this done asap and have no way of finding out by jacking it up and letting the suspension droop. So as the truck sits on the level with no lift how much of the slip shaft on the driveshaft should be in or exposed.
I have to get my shaft added too forsure and quickly. I rear ended a new Subura the other day in a snow storm and now have no car and my woman is about to born my second child and I need to get the K5 mobile asap.
My driveshaft on the rear is roughly 8 inches too short since I changed over from th350 to sm465. Now right now I cant jack my truck because my k5 is supported for much needed floor repairs. Now my transfer case was a 203 and now is a 205 with a factory SYE. So the slip is on my shaft. I need to get this done asap and have no way of finding out by jacking it up and letting the suspension droop. So as the truck sits on the level with no lift how much of the slip shaft on the driveshaft should be in or exposed.
