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rear driveshaft question

M

mollyman

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I have an 81 k10 sub and I am puttting a 205 tcase in it. my question is it has a yoke on the back output, so should I swich it to a flange or leave the yoke? I know this an opinion answer but please let me know your thoughts. The reason I am considering this is because I was on the HAD website (cause I will now have to get a new dshaft since my old case was a 208) and they seemed to be pushing the flange on the rear output. Thanks for any info
 
personaly i would run a flange, they have tall ears so you can get more angle before the drive shaft binds. With a yoke the ujoint is not retained as well with the ubolts or straps where as a flange the bearing cup is pressed into the flange and retained with snap rings. Its nice because it is way easier to install being you can actually get a ratchet on it rather than a wrench from the back side. GM is the only manufacture left that uses yolks every one else is flanges, one reason being the diff only has one pinnion yoke and you just change the flange for different ujoint sizes. That being said i am working on building my drive shafts and i am using flanges at both ends, i have to make an adapeter though becasue i am running 1480 in the rear shaft
 
They are pushing the flange because they make it themselves and prolly make more of a profit on it. I have a 1350CV and asked carolina driveline if I should use a yolk type CV or a flange CV and they told me they thought the yolk CV was stronger. you also have the advantage of having a cheap non CV spare if you break the good CV shaft.
 
the flange style is stronger of the two i have seen test data to prove this, I have done the anyalisis on the drive shafts i am building for my truck and the weak point is not the cv or the flanges its the tube, .083 wall tube twists at around 7,500 ft-lb of torque
 
thanks for the info I would rather keep my yoke just to save some money and i saw your dshaft on your build thread it looks stout! i will have to check out carolina driveline
 
mollyman said:
thanks for the info I would rather keep my yoke just to save some money and i saw your dshaft on your build thread it looks stout! i will have to check out carolina driveline
Click to expand...

yeah check them out, the shippin will be cheaper for you too. But as far as savin money you will still have to get a CV yoke anyhow and its just as expensive as a flange usually. What you running for rear suspension, you might not need a CV shaft. I really didn't need one, I just got one for peace of mind.
 
My rear suspension is a DIY shakle flip that gives me 4" of lift but I also got a new set of springs that r susposed to be stock heighth but they seem to be adding at least 1" if not more. I was just going to do a cv shaft cause it seemed like the best way to go. I realy only want to do this thing once so I am trying to get all the best stuff as I go (it seems u r doing the same). My sub is currently sitting with the body off and I am trying to get everything for the drivetrain together to do it all at once. and just so I am clear the cv is the contraption on the tcase end that adds more "flex" into the dshaft and instead of the cv ending with a flange I can get it like yours and have it end with just the ujoint
 
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