Rear electric window problems?

[nsxxtreme]

Sound like it could be a ground issue.

Maybe you missed the post where I ran 12 guage straight from the battery to the motor?

I just think these motors are weak to begin with. If everything doesn't line up just perfectly the window motor craps out. I can get my window up and down now and thats all I care.

 

[Teck]

Not talking about the power wire. They are bad about not grounding through the tailgate/body so running a good ground wire to the frame sometimes will help.

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

Nah they're definitly good enough. When the stars line up mine rolls down very speedy, and back up at a decent rate, and I still have the original motor. You say it's fine w/o the inner seal at the top of the tailgate? Start from there, is the window track in good shape, not bent? Perhaps something's bent, or that seal is jacked up, causing too much friction against the window, that's 4ft wide of friction rubbing against a heavy window. I can't even remember what the inner bit of weatherstripping looks like, I can only picture the outside part cause I know mine's all cracked and broken

 

[Fordum]

Not talking about the power wire. They are bad about not grounding through the tailgate/body so running a good ground wire to the frame sometimes will help.

I thought the same thing, but I went back and reread post 4, and he said he ran power and ground using 12 ga wire straight from the battery.

I doubt he has gotten two bad motors. There is something binding somewhere.
I getting really tired of trying to diagnose problems in equipment I've never seen. Its frustrating as all get out.
I need to find someone who has one of these vehicles and pull the panel off the back.

What is the cable he mentions? Is this a cable drive unit? Like a speedometer cable?
Or does it wind up cables like some of the new window units?

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

I thought the same thing, but I went back and reread post 4, and he said he ran power and ground using 12 ga wire straight from the battery.

What is the cable he mentions? Is this a cable drive unit? Like a speedometer cable?
Or does it wind up cables like some of the new window units?

I believe he's saying cable for power, meaning he hooked the motor directly to the battery source to test. The motor is a cable drive unit like a speedometer cable, which is why there was talk about using a drill.

Battery>wire>electric motor>cable(wire rope)>window crank unit

 

[Fordum]

That is what I was thinking. I have seen drive cables get dry and bind internally. I wonder if you can pull out the core and grease it?

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

That is what I was thinking. I have seen drive cables get dry and bind internally. I wonder if you can pull out the core and grease it?

I never paid attention to how 'sealed' the cable is inside the plastic sleeve. OP is saying it works just fine w/o the inner weather stripping on. So I'm wondering if the window channels/crank & roller assembly are bent or some kind of alignment problem, which is causing it to rub heavily on that side of the tailgate or against something in there.

Also, does the window look crooked front to back, or side to side? The window sitting on the crank assembly correctly? Are all the mounting bolts tight?

 

[lectric80]

These windows use a motor mounted at the bottom of the tailgate, with a cable connected to a transmission mounted on the regulator. He is definitely having some binding issues when a single seal is removed and the window works fine. Most likely is that all the new stuff he bought is so tight that it is going to take time to loosen everything up to the point that it will all work right. New heavy gauge wire would help speed this process up, but it isn't going to do much until the seals all get loosened up.

 

[nsxxtreme]

That is what I was thinking. I have seen drive cables get dry and bind internally. I wonder if you can pull out the core and grease it?

Cable is new. This is a drive cable. The motor sits near the top of the tailgate and a cable runs to the regulator.

 

[nsxxtreme]

is the window track in good shape, not bent? Perhaps something's bent, or that seal is jacked up, causing too much friction against the window, that's 4ft wide of friction rubbing against a heavy window. I can't even remember what the inner bit of weatherstripping looks like, I can only picture the outside part cause I know mine's all cracked and broken

Window track is brand new.

 

[nsxxtreme]

These windows use a motor mounted at the bottom of the tailgate, with a cable connected to a transmission mounted on the regulator. He is definitely having some binding issues when a single seal is removed and the window works fine. Most likely is that all the new stuff he bought is so tight that it is going to take time to loosen everything up to the point that it will all work right. New heavy gauge wire would help speed this process up, but it isn't going to do much until the seals all get loosened up.

I gave up at this point. I spent all of Yesterday trying to get it to work right. I ripped the inner seal off and it works now that is all I really care. Would have been nice to have the other seal in there and not have the window woble around but I get frustrated with American engineering and would end up kicking the window out after a while.

I'm an engineer myself and some of the thing they did just make you say WTF. For example all the accessory brackets on the front of the engine. I swear some guy must have needed a job and all he did was design brackets.

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

I'm an engineer myself and some of the thing they did just make you say WTF. For example all the accessory brackets on the front of the engine. I swear some guy must have needed a job and all he did was design brackets.

How else are you going to mount all of the accessories. Not to mention make them multi make/model usable. And you don't know the agony of brackets/accessories/belts until you've worked on an Olds 307 from a smog equipped G body.

But one thing I do agree with from an engineering point, putting the distributor on the front like some other vehicle manufacturer would have been nice.

 

[nsxxtreme]

How else are you going to mount all of the accessories. Not to mention make them multi make/model usable. And you don't know the agony of brackets/accessories/belts until you've worked on an Olds 307 from a smog equipped G body. .

Make one bracket where all the accesories fit leave the spots empty that don't have those accesories. Or build the bracket into the part and just bolt it to the engine. I've seen a 94 blazer and that one actually looks like they started to figure it out. The chevy motor is from the 50's I wouldn't think it would take 40 + years of refinement to figure it out.

My truck has brackets bolted to brackets its nuts.

 

[496truck]

Remember now that the V belt was the only option at one time. And every accessory needed it's own belt(s) for the most part. Which means they all needed to be at different depths in relation to the block. Stamping a sheet of steel into the proper shape with some mounting holes in it was quick and cheap. And it worked.

It wasn't untill transverse engines came along and they needed a way for 1 belt to run everything did they figure out serpentine belts and cast aluminum accessory brackets to mount them all on the same plane. Once they figured that out it wasn't long before that tech made it into the trucks, hence the serp belt drive in the 88 or 89 model year.

 

[blackcloud]

Also seen the safety switch on the latch cause problems.

I have an 87 Burb with electric rear window,replaced the motor (the switch on the dash has never worked) as the thing quit with the window down (of course LOL) and it went up fine but now wont come down again! Is the little switch on the passenger side a culprit? Can it be bypassed? Looked at LMC and the usual for a replacement and GM laughed at me! Thanks Guys in advance!