CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rear floor rust removal

nad said:
Well that side panel is where the bottom of the seat belt is supposed to bolt down to. I guess I just need to use like 12 gauge sheet metal on that part so the seatbelt can be attached and won't rip through.


Yep, 12 gauge or better yet 10 gauge. Use that at the seatbelt mounting and the seat mounts the rest of the floor can be 16 or 14 gauge. Mjne is 16 gauge diamond plate, it will leave a nice texture with Rhinoliner.
 
I used some 22 gauge on some small patches in the back, and they didn't handle the welds too well. I'm using 16 gauge for the front large floor patches, and I'm gonna use some 10 gauge for the seat mounts and seat belt mounts. Thanks for your advice and pictures guys. Keep it coming.
 
Make sure that when you patch the floor you over lap the new floor with the old. tack every couple inches and keep it tight as possible. dont forget bout the underside. get a couple tubes of seam seal and fill in everywhere you patched then coat it good with a quality undercoating or hercliner. ( if not water will get stuck in there and rust out again) take your time and do it right. also just get new bolts when you put your seats in. drill the holes then tighten the bolts. if you want then you can tack weld the bolts to the floor. good luck have fun
 
Well in the back I didn't overlap much, I just made it exactly the right size. I'm doing herculiner on the entire inside, and once I'm done doing the inside, I'm gonna do the whole underneath with Rust Bullet or POR-15. I've been filling the welds with some two part epoxy which is essentially like a JB Weld type stuff.
 
I'm to the point now that i'm gonna be cutting out the seat mounting points that are pictured above. The rear two holes on the front seat are cracked and falling through.

What would you guys suggest me do about it? Cut each small section out and weld metal in place, then drill new holes? Or cut out both the rear ones in one piece and weld a whole new piece that goes all the way across. Or maybe weld braces underneath.

I just want it to be strong so my seat mounts dont' fall through again. Any suggestions?
 
Anybody? I need some opinions so I know what to do when I get started on it tomorrow ;)
 
i say cut the whole floor out as a simple shape - for instance, see if you can get it all with cutting out a rectangle. then tack in a new rectangle. i think that 3/8 is a bit heavy duty for bracing your seat, but if you got it on hand it'll do. once you get your seat set in the right place and drill the holes, put the bolts thru, tighten them up and then spot weld the nuts in place. then you could pull the bolts back out and really weld the nuts on properly. :wink1:

i think maybe you're beyond this point already, but you could always paint the bottom of the tail pan before you put it in - then you wouldn't have to drop the tank.
 
Rust Bullet

Hey saw you were gonna use por15 or rust bullet on exterior underbody.. I would go with the rust bullet. Its alot easier to use then por and almost zero prep for it. I did the whole inside floor board of my blaze and I like it.. I am going to do the underside with it also.. You can take a look at my thread in signature block.. Good Luck
 
Well I'm looking to do the front seats right now. The rear mounts for the front seats both cracked through. I wanted to just cut each one out as a square, but a couple of my friends said that wouldn't be strong enough.
 
Also, what type of epoxy/silicone/sealant should I use for sealing up my welds that I've done? I was going to use liquid nails, but I wanted to hear all your opinions on it.
 
what do you mean by "sealing up the welds". there should be no holes in the welds that need sealing. painting it with a primer is all i know to do to fresh welds.
 
Well I want the seams on the welds to be sealed up from water and stuff. I'm no expert welder, there are some pin holes here and there.
 
you could use line-x or rhino liner haha jk expensive mod my friend but black outdoor water proof sealant should work thats what i use to seal the seams of pickup boxes ...
 
i know very little about all this, but i think i would fill it with a dab of weld and then grind the welds down flat and paint them with primer.
 
nad said:
Well I want the seams on the welds to be sealed up from water and stuff. I'm no expert welder, there are some pin holes here and there.


--- I've got an old 50 amp DC arc welder, and I find I just burn new holes in the sheet metal with that. I was thinking maybe brazing with a gas torch would make more sense. Or jacking up the body off the chassis and slipping the chassis under a different body.
 
Top Bottom