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Rear/Front Oil Change questions

garydan

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Port Saint Lucie, Fl.
Do I need to buy a couple gaskets, or just use some Red RTV sealant? Also what weight gear oil do I need for a stock 10-bolt in a 1985 K5 Blazer?

Thanks!
 
A gasket is not needed...just some RTV. Does not have to be the red. I've used black, copper, red, blue...whatever I had an open tube of.

I've always run 80/90w in my diffs.
 
A gasket is not needed...just some RTV. Does not have to be the red. I've used black, copper, red, blue...whatever I had an open tube of.

I've always run 80/90w in my diffs.
ever thought of using the lucas gear oil additive in the diffs ????? i got a slight leak in my front pinion seal like a 5 min drip after i have driven like a half hour or more ???? i just cant afford a diff rebuild right now so you got any suggestions
 
ever thought of using the lucas gear oil additive in the diffs ????? i got a slight leak in my front pinion seal like a 5 min drip after i have driven like a half hour or more ???? i just cant afford a diff rebuild right now so you got any suggestions

I'm a fan of stop leak type products, they actually work pretty well usually. And I have never seen any failures from them, some people will tell you they are bad (an old wives tell IMO).

This is for your '75 K5 right (which would have a D44 up front stock). Are you still using the stock front axle?

Does anyone know if the GM D44's used crush sleeves or shims for pinion bearing preload?
 
ever thought of using the lucas gear oil additive in the diffs ????? i got a slight leak in my front pinion seal like a 5 min drip after i have driven like a half hour or more ???? i just cant afford a diff rebuild right now so you got any suggestions

Well, I went and looked it up in my '77 service manual and it shows shims for the front axle.

That means (if you have a GM D44 or D60) that you can remove the pinion nut, pull off the yoke and replace the seal. Then reinstall the yoke and put on a NEW nut. Done, it won't affect gear setup at all.

I believe that 10 bolts use a crush sleeve, so you can't remove the pinion nut without screwing up the pinion bearing preload.
 
ever thought of using the Lucas gear oil additive in the diffs ????? i got a slight leak in my front pinion seal like a 5 min drip after i have driven like a half hour or more ???? i just cant afford a diff rebuild right now so you got any suggestions
I run Lucas in my Avalanche. I ask at the shop we installed the 5.13's at about running Royal Purple and he said he would not warranty the gears if I ran it...He uses only Lucas and has great results so I went with it. He said RP does ok for a while but will lose all it's viscosity all of a sudden and you will burn up your gears....
 
i have had my FRONT 10 bolt pinion nut removed a few times to either replace the seal, or change out the gears, you CAN reuse the nut and as long as you severly tighten the nut down, it will not cause an issue, only because you're not running the front axle usually at high speeds and for extended periods of time. (unless fulltime 4wd) then set it up correctly.

don't try it on a rear though either.

mine is still in one piece, still works fine, no abnormal noise either.

again i only say this because the front diff is not used NEARLY as much as a rear. (unless fulltime 4wd)
 
on the front dana 44 it is real easy to use a suction gun to get the oil out. I only pull the cover if it gets water in the oil or to fix leaks. I use black rtv.
 
I now have 4K miles on my 84 K5 and 12 years and a bizillion miles on my 74 K10 truck both with 10 bolts and reusing the rear pinion nut after replacing the pinion seal nd no issues. Do some research on Lucas products if you feel warm and fuzzy about them and you might change your mind on additives. Modern reputable company lubricants from the likes of Chevron,Shell etc are far supreior than some snake oil from a garage lube producer. Ive been running heavy equiptment,scrapers,dozers,backhoes,ttransfer trucks for most of my life and have never seen anyone use addatives in a piece or half million dollar equiptment to keep it together,also keep in mind also all these race guys rebuild after every season if not sooner so oil related failures are seldom. Pick up some Chevron or Shell Rotella gear oil in a 80/90+- range and you`ll be good to go.
 

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