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Rear Inboarding Kit ?'s

NorCalAnthony

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Hey Guys,
Trying to finish squirreling away parts for my build and am wondering if I should add one of Kert's inboarding kits to the list or just stick with the stock location and a pair of ORD's braces. From what I've been able to find in my searches most guys use the inner most mounting holes to stuff the longest shock possible under there which works well offroad but minimizes how effective the shocks are for street driving. What I haven't been able to find is anyone who has used them with the outer most mounting holes to keep the shocks more vertical and how the street manners are with that setup? What do you guys think?
 
Forgot to add my truck is an 84 K5 and will mainly be a summer toy with a lot of street/highway use, occasional camping rig, and some mild offroading here and there. So while I want it to be able to handle whatever I throw it offroad (within reason), the on-road manners are more important. I'll be installing a 4" shackle flip in the rear, new fuel tank for my LS swap, and a newer disc brake 14BFF in the rear and so it wouldn't take much more work to install one of these kits while I'm in there.
 
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The ideal is for the shock to be mounted as vertical as possible and as close to the wheel as possible, inboard and tipped over both make the shock less effective (both on-road and off).

Do you need more travel than the stock mounting system lets you have? The back is usually pretty good on square body stuff, but it depends on how much lift you have, what shock you're talking about and the use (i.e. do you need all the travel you can get offroad, or a shorter/easier street driven setup).
 
I went with stock location and ORD brace kit under my '90. I don't believe it uses all of the shock travel. The OEM guys have pushed the shocks out on newer stuff for better control. GM did it on the trucks in '73. My '70 Chevy has them inboard. I wouldn't go backwards, but some guys do it to make it easier to get exhaust through, and possibly other packaging reasons.
 
Thanks guys. I don't think I'd be maxing out the factory location with just a shackle flip and stock rear leaf packs. I was mainly looking at it as something that'd be easy to do while everything else was apart and would be a good preventative measure since the stock upper mounts are known to crack the frame or rip clear out. That being said I think mine looked ok last time I was under there so if the inboarding will hurt the on-road performance then I'll just stick with the stock setup and add the braces.

@1977k5 for the suspension setup I have a set of lightly used 4" TC EZ-Rides for the front and the stock rear springs with a 4" shackle flip in the rear. I was going to order some of your Bilsteins 5125's once I get everything mocked up and confirm lengths and call it good but now I'm really tempted to order a set of your custom springs for the front instead while I still have my tax return burning a whole in my pocket...
 
Thanks guys. I don't think I'd be maxing out the factory location with just a shackle flip and stock rear leaf packs. I was mainly looking at it as something that'd be easy to do while everything else was apart and would be a good preventative measure since the stock upper mounts are known to crack the frame or rip clear out. That being said I think mine looked ok last time I was under there so if the inboarding will hurt the on-road performance then I'll just stick with the stock setup and add the braces.

@1977k5 for the suspension setup I have a set of lightly used 4" TC EZ-Rides for the front and the stock rear springs with a 4" shackle flip in the rear. I was going to order some of your Bilsteins 5125's once I get everything mocked up and confirm lengths and call it good but now I'm really tempted to order a set of your custom springs for the front instead while I still have my tax return burning a whole in my pocket...
I had one of the inboard kits on my blazer worked great in fact it’s for sale went to coil overs no use for it now .
 

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