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rear main seal replacement

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07coupegt

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I am getting ready to repace the leaking rear main seal in my 91, but have a few questions. I know that I need to pull out the trans (700r4) but I haven't ever done this before, so any advice? Should I disconnect the tv cable at the trans or at the throttle body? and what about the dipstick tube? Do I need to remove it too. Any other tips? Do I need any special tools? Also, what kind of seal do you reccomend buying, and is there any other seals I will need besides the pan gasket and the rear main?
Thanks.
 
U-hook from throttle body. Drop pan so as not to make huge mess.re-install pan.The dipstick tube is attatched to the trans via- a bellhousing bolt, unbolt it and slide it out of the trans.The rest of the linkage ,torque converter is fairly self explanitory. No special tools except a good jack. I use a harbor freight piece i got for 60$ , works great. You need to seperate trans and t-case . when your ready to seperate trans from engine do it, then slide trans off the jack onto the exhaust where it crosses over . Relocate the jack behind the exhaust and slide it onto the jack again. then the fun of the rear main seal begins. Its super easy though . Make sure to get a bonded engine oil pan gasket as corks sucks balls.
 
THANKS. So you reccomend leaving the exhaust on? I was under the impression that it had to come off? Would it be easier if I take it off (assuming i can get the bolts out that is)? Also, how do reccomend supporting the tranny while removing it? I don't want to spend $200 on a transmission jack, but I don't really feel comfortable with trying to balance the trans on my floor jack.
 
A 1991 engine uses a 1 piece rear seal and you DO NOT need to drop the oil pan as long as it is the rubber seal that is leaking and not the gasket behind the seal adapter (highly unlikely for that to be leaking). I like using the teflon rear seal as they seal much better than the standard seal. Once you have the trans/t-case moved out of the way you just need to carefully remove the old seal by prying it out of the seal adapter without nicking the crank sealing surface. Now just use the installation tool that should come with the new seal and install it into the seal adapter. You want to disconnect the TV from the throttle body AND the bracket it attaches to.
 
Yes absolutely support it at all times. Depending on condition of your motor mounts the distributor cap may come into contact with the firewall and crunch it. It is a heavy combo for the standard jack pad to ballance, as mentioned the jack i use on sidejobs cost me a total of 60 bucks from harbod frieght. It works for all sorts of stuff
 
I found a place where I can rent a hydraulic transmission jack for $25, so that solves the one problem. Do you have a part number for the teflon seal? I tried searching online and can't find one?
 
07coupegt said:
I found a place where I can rent a hydraulic transmission jack for $25, so that solves the one problem. Do you have a part number for the teflon seal? I tried searching online and can't find one?
Click to expand...

CarQuest 4359V is the good Viton rear crank seal.
 
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