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Rear pinion slow leaking, how much for repair? Til then what weight oil for top off?

Clueless here.



80/90.


Do it yourself and it will only be a few bucks for the seal.


Mark where the pinion nut is so that you can turn it back on to the same spot. Remove the nut, remove the seal, put new seal in and put it back together.


Is it the "scientific" way to do it? No, but it will work just fine.


Otherwise its the whole install new crush sleeve, set preload etc etc.
 
I did this same thing a few years back, haven't had any issues at all with the driveability of the vehicle, when it was drivable, and it's about to finally make it's way back here next week from Indiana too.. :woot:
 
80/90.


Do it yourself and it will only be a few bucks for the seal.


Mark where the pinion nut is so that you can turn it back on to the same spot. Remove the nut, remove the seal, put new seal in and put it back together.


Is it the "scientific" way to do it? No, but it will work jus
Otherwise its the whole install new crush sleeve, set preload etc etc.
This, and a little Red Locktite on the threads.
 
In Dallas you could probably get away with adding some LUCAS or STP Gear Treatment to thicken up the lube,
, or SAE 140W gear oil,that's thicker than multi-weight gear oils, to slow the leakage down until proper repairs can be made...
 
This sounds pretty involved. Dont i have to have a shop press the seal in for me anyway?

80/90.


Do it yourself and it will only be a few bucks for the seal.


Mark where the pinion nut is so that you can turn it back on to the same spot. Remove the nut, remove the seal, put new seal in and put it back together.


Is it the "scientific" way to do it? No, but it will work just fine.


Otherwise its the whole install new crush sleeve, set preload etc etc.
 
No shop press. Pry the old one out, tap the new one in. Just like dueling said. We can talk you through it when you get into it if need be, but if you're really not comfortable with it maybe consider having it done.

It's not hard to get the nut back where it was, but too loose or too tight and you could be rebuilding your rearend.
 
All it takes is a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to get the old out. And a hammer to tap the new one in...

Pretty simple fix IMO.
 
All it takes is a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to get the old out. And a hammer to tap the new one in...

Pretty simple fix IMO.

Ok my buddy made it out to be a pretty big deal, something a shop might need to do. What weight oil?
 
80/ 90 if you have posi add the additive or use synthetic, I am doing this next Saturday
its not that hard
 
Ok my buddy made it out to be a pretty big deal, something a shop might need to do. What weight oil?

To do it *right*, as mentioned, IS a big deal. Factory procedure without a new crush sleeve is to measure in-lbs required to turn pinion prior to disassembly, then upon reassembly get to same spec, then something like 5 in-lbs more.

I've done it the "wrong" way maybe 5 times, and the last time it didn't work. The axle now howls at speed. It's not in a vehicle I run presently, but I won't keep driving it that way.

Most people don't have a problem just slapping it back together. The seal is the easy part. Making sure the gears mesh right afterwards is the lucky part.
 
Another thing to consider is that worn bearings can cause the pinion seal to leak. Check your yoke for lateral and vertical play, a little rotational slop is alright. If the bearings are bad, you'll be replacing that seal again in short order. Also, wipe a thin layer of RTV around the mating surface of the seal before you tap it in.
 
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