Seeing the shocks from a distance helps illustrate that the angles look really good now. You'll be glad you spent the extra time moving that upper mount.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Rear shock mounts?
- Thread starter hvy chevy
- Start date
It's a good thing I did all this measuring before I started welding... lol 
6" of up travel plus shackle swing? I have 5.5" of shock exposed.
It looks like I need to take a 3rd try at this?
(DOH!! ...all I can do is laugh it off)
6" of up travel plus shackle swing? I have 5.5" of shock exposed.
It looks like I need to take a 3rd try at this?
(DOH!! ...all I can do is laugh it off)
This last bit of info about up travel is probably invaluable. Thanks for making it get noticed. (I needed it)
I'm just thinking out loud now. But, does the "general rule" for up-travel count when using a shackle flip?
Probably not...
I'm just thinking out loud now. But, does the "general rule" for up-travel count when using a shackle flip?
Probably not...
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
It's a good thing I did all this measuring before I started welding... lol
6" of up travel plus shackle swing? I have 5.5" of shock exposed.
It looks like I need to take a 3rd try at this?
(DOH!! ...all I can do is laugh it off)
That's all you can do.
I think we all have been there a time or two.
Guess I should have mentioned the up travel sooner.
Does the "general rule" for up-travel count when using a shackle flip?
I think it would. It's still a shackle and it will still rotate. But I don't know for sure.
Does a shackle flip cause the spring to move up more or less?
A shackle flip won't make any difference with the measurements.
Once a spring is flattened out, it's given you all its got. You don't want it going into negative arch... It's tough on the spring and will eventually lead to breakage. Set your bumpstops correctly to make sure that the spring stops moving once it's flat, and make sure that the shock still has mayne 1/4" of travel left at that point so you don't blow them out when the suspension bottoms.
Once a spring is flattened out, it's given you all its got. You don't want it going into negative arch... It's tough on the spring and will eventually lead to breakage. Set your bumpstops correctly to make sure that the spring stops moving once it's flat, and make sure that the shock still has mayne 1/4" of travel left at that point so you don't blow them out when the suspension bottoms.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
Greg,
I think what Matt and I are getting at is how much more/less a spring pack will move with a shackle flip as compared to a regular shackle. As the spring compresses and begins to move the shackle it will rotate at the connection point on the frame thus causing the frame to move closer to the axle without flattening out the spring any more. Or am I way off here?
I think what Matt and I are getting at is how much more/less a spring pack will move with a shackle flip as compared to a regular shackle. As the spring compresses and begins to move the shackle it will rotate at the connection point on the frame thus causing the frame to move closer to the axle without flattening out the spring any more. Or am I way off here?
Ok I understand what you're getting at now...
A shackle flip (compression style shackle) will allow the spring eye on that side to move closer to the frame as it compresses. To be 100% accurate with the shock setup you should account for that motion. A little graph paper or simple trig should allow you to figure out how much the shackle movement is changing your spring position.
On a stock shackle setup (tension style) the shackle fights so hard against the spring that you'd probably never get the spring flattened out.... Unless you filled the bed with concrete!
A shackle flip (compression style shackle) will allow the spring eye on that side to move closer to the frame as it compresses. To be 100% accurate with the shock setup you should account for that motion. A little graph paper or simple trig should allow you to figure out how much the shackle movement is changing your spring position.
On a stock shackle setup (tension style) the shackle fights so hard against the spring that you'd probably never get the spring flattened out.... Unless you filled the bed with concrete!
Do you think the measurement will change as far as uptravel?
Later this week I will try to get some pics of the suspension compressed.
Anyone have pics of bumpstop mounts?
Are these any good?
http://truckandwinch.com/daystar-ku...mp-stops-11-25-extended-x-7-00-collapsed.html
Little bit of info here
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/project616.html
http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0904or_bump_stop_tech/index.html
Anyone have pics of bumpstop mounts?
Are these any good?
http://truckandwinch.com/daystar-ku...mp-stops-11-25-extended-x-7-00-collapsed.html
Little bit of info here
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/project616.html
http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0904or_bump_stop_tech/index.html
Last edited:
Those bump cans are more of a "go fast" desert truck part (the "real" ones anyway)
Seems like overkill for a leaf sprung crawler. I'd go with a properly set up simple urethane one like you showed in your last post.
Seems like overkill for a leaf sprung crawler. I'd go with a properly set up simple urethane one like you showed in your last post.
Ok, I was kinda thinking the same thing.Those bump cans are more of a "go fast" desert truck part (the "real" ones anyway)
Seems like overkill for a leaf sprung crawler. I'd go with a properly set up simple urethane one like you showed in your last post.
Question for ya. Before I mount the bump stops or think about moving my lower shock mounts....I've been looking at this truck and thinking I might want to lift the rear a tiny bit more. By the time I add some more weight back there like a spare tire, tools, ice chest, rear bumper, etc...It already doesn't quite sit level. I would like it to sit level.
At this point, what would the best way to achieve a 1/2" to 1" lift be? Just add a block, longer rear shackle??? I have the zero rates moving the axle back 1.5". I've been reading about the longer springs...
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated, now is the time to change something
I'd definitely do a longer shackle.
The factory one is really short, and I wonder if it's even possible for the spring to flatten out completely when coupled to such a short shackle?
Just remember a 1" longer shackle only adds 1/2" of lift....so plan accordingly.
The factory one is really short, and I wonder if it's even possible for the spring to flatten out completely when coupled to such a short shackle?
Just remember a 1" longer shackle only adds 1/2" of lift....so plan accordingly.
Yeah, I noticed the ORD shackle. Do you know how long it is bolt hole to bolt hole vs. stock? It seems like it could still be a bit longer, and you're already using all the other simple "tricks" to cheat the extra clearance.
When I finished my suspension work and D60 front axle installation my truck sat slightly low in the rear. I did the longer rear shackle as the final tweak.... When measuring at the bedrail, I ended up with about 1-degree of forward rake, which to me looked like the "correct" stance.
Remember, the rear wheel wells are slightly lower than the fronts so visually the rear will seem lower even if the bedrail is 100% level.
When I finished my suspension work and D60 front axle installation my truck sat slightly low in the rear. I did the longer rear shackle as the final tweak.... When measuring at the bedrail, I ended up with about 1-degree of forward rake, which to me looked like the "correct" stance.
Remember, the rear wheel wells are slightly lower than the fronts so visually the rear will seem lower even if the bedrail is 100% level.
Keep in mind that a longer shackle will move your axle forward as it rotates around the radius of the spring. I'm assuming you've already experienced that with the shackle flip and pushed it back with the zero rate.
That is a very nice looking 1st gen, Hvy Chevy. 
What color did you paint it? It looks very close to what I'm thinking. Any way you can get a closer pic of the paint color in the sun?
Thanks,
What color did you paint it? It looks very close to what I'm thinking. Any way you can get a closer pic of the paint color in the sun?
Thanks,
Alright, thanks guys. I'll measure the shackle and go from there.
NorCal69, thanks! It's a Chrysler color. They offered it on the Dodge Charger a few years ago. I'll get a closer pic soon. I won't have the blazer back for a few days.
NorCal69, thanks! It's a Chrysler color. They offered it on the Dodge Charger a few years ago. I'll get a closer pic soon. I won't have the blazer back for a few days.
There isn't an impressive amount of up travel. 3" and no shocks binding, nothing hitting anything. I'm assuming because I'm NOT running the longer leaf springs?? What do you guys think?
Edit: Yes I know the boggers are on backwards, don't laugh too much
Edit: Yes I know the boggers are on backwards, don't laugh too much
