Rear shocks, cracked frame, wallered holes

[92yamaha]

I'm sure there's a lot of posts about frame cracks around the shock mounts, but I figured I would share mine.

To repair, I Dremeled out the cracks to chamfer the edges of each crack. I chose not to drill out the ends like most threads; the whole frame's getting cut in 6 months.

I welded all the cracks with a lot of heat on each side of the frame. Chose to go with a double-sheer setup using brackets from Ruff Stuff. If you go this route, DRILL OUT THE BOLT HOLES FOR 9/16; that's the factory size for the holes in the shock mount.

Link for these brackets: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

Typical cracks on rear shocks

• 92yamaha
• Sep 9, 2016

Dremeled cracks before welding

• 92yamaha
• Sep 9, 2016

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

• 92yamaha
• Sep 9, 2016

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

• 92yamaha
• Sep 9, 2016

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

 

[Chevy305]

That's a nice solution to the shock mount problems these frames have. I went with the ORD brace kit and my frame still cracked.

 

[92yamaha]

That sucks to hear that the frame still cracked using their kit. I really like ORDs products. I didn't go with their kit because I would have had to rebuild the hole in the frame for the bolt.

I also found some awesome custom braces here: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=31725.0. This guy does good work.

 

[Chevy305]

That sucks to hear that the frame still cracked using their kit. I really like ORDs products. I didn't go with their kit because I would have had to rebuild the hole in the frame for the bolt.

I also found some awesome custom braces here: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=31725.0. This guy does good work.

I don't think it was ORD's fault, but rather the frame just being weak at a previously repaired crack.

 

[dyeager535]

I welded the stud in place back in the day, the majority of the problems seem to come from the shock bolt loosening up and hammering the frame. I figured if you stopped the stud from loosening up, the issue would be eliminated.

I should get back under there to see how it's held, been ~10 years or so.

 

[diesel4me]

If thick large diameter washers were used and the stud torqued down right I bet the frames wouldn't crack and get hogged out..

 

[92yamaha]

For anyone that needs another option to repair. I just welded these over the existing holes (after dremeling out the valleys and welding). This counts as a double-sheer and forgets the factory BS mounting.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

• 92yamaha
• Sep 9, 2016

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

• 92yamaha
• Sep 9, 2016

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

 

[Stephen]

It's nice to keep the bolt running across the truck so as the axle moves front to back the shock head is rotating around the bushing instead of pivoting around the hourglass portion. Otherwise that works out clean and easy.

 

[92yamaha]

It's nice to keep the bolt running across the truck so as the axle moves front to back the shock head is rotating around the bushing instead of pivoting around the hourglass portion. Otherwise that works out clean and easy.

Yes, you are absolutely correct. However, during flex while off road, shouldn't this pivot better? The axle-side is parallel with the axle, so as the suspension is flexed, it should pivot on this style of shock mount (parallel with the frame). I'm not entirely sure; the geometry is beyond me.

If I had a set of Kings in there, I would think the factory mount would be best.

 

[Deuling]

Yes, you are absolutely correct. However, during flex while off road, shouldn't this pivot better? The axle-side is parallel with the axle, so as the suspension is flexed, it should pivot on this style of shock mount (parallel with the frame). I'm not entirely sure; the geometry is beyond me.

If I had a set of Kings in there, I would think the factory mount would be best.

Kinda depends on the wheeling you do.

Alot of flexing and this would probably work better than the stock setup. But if you do alot of static travel stuff (like dunes) then the stock orientation would be better.

 

[Justin V]

Let's just all say it together.

Our

Frames

Suck.

That is all.

 

[Deuling]

Fish plates and cages tied to frame makes everybody happy.