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Rear spring question...

Burbdood 74

Giver of not a single damn...
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So...if a guy messed up and ordered 52" rear springs from Rough Country when he bought his 4" lift when he really had 56" rear springs...would it screw anything up if he were to move the rear spring hanger forward 4"?

Or, would said dumbass be better off just going ahead and using blocks under his stock springs since his Suburban is just a fishing access road, daddy duty hauler that never gets beat on...

Just hypothetically speaking of course...:whistle:
 
The axle would also move forward to compensate that move of the rear hanger and would not sit right in the wheel well. Both hangers would have to move to make it sit right and probably with the frame being what it is would may or may not be able to be done. I would return the wrong springs and get the correct ones. You may have to repay shipping again but it will be correct and sit where it's supposed to. I hate to use blocks myself as I've broken a couple sets over the years. Almost lost my rear axle and could have done some massive body damage if I didn't catch it in time. I was however beating the s out of my truck at the time. Lol. A block if done correct can work for many people and have no problems. Just make sure you check them And the u bolts every so often to make sure they are tight and haven't moved.
 
56" springs are 4" longer on the back end only.

if you look on your frame there is prob a set of holes already there to move the rear shackle hanger forward .

I have done both swaps for my self and others with no problems.

just pop the rivits and get some 7/16" bolts and move them were you want them . best to use crimp/stove nuts over lockwashers.
 
The problem with getting the 56" springs is the fact that R C wants $365 for the springs and the shipping. They said once the 52" springs get sent back, they'll refund that money back. I can't afford to tie up that amount of money for what could be up to 3 weeks since we're on a tight budget.

I've had lift blocks in the past and I haven't had a problem with them and since R C only wants $45 for both sides...that's an attractive option since I need to get the burb back on the road ASAP since it is the main family hauler. But moving the rear hanger forward is another idea I had so I'm not stuck with big pieces of smiling iron mocking me in all my dumbass-ery.
 
fyi burb & blazer moving hanger sometimes requires droping the tank . if you cant worm your way up in there . :whistle:

and rough country is a stiff ride anyways . so good luck . but the extra weight of the burb should help some.
 
56" springs are 4" longer on the back end only.

if you look on your frame there is prob a set of holes already there to move the rear shackle hanger forward .

I have done both swaps for my self and others with no problems.

just pop the rivits and get some 7/16" bolts and move them were you want them . best to use crimp/stove nuts over lockwashers.

If this is the case then you may be ok. They won't flex as good as the 56 but if it has the correct holes and will line up it looks like it has been done already.
 
it is this easy :whistle: not saying your wrong or I am 100% right . but here is the facts I know.

I did a 2wd 52 to 56 swap my self on my 1/2 truck box trailer frame cut off. holes were there .

did my friends k30 c&c converted mud truck from 56 down to 52 as its what he had .

best part is if you don't have the holes its as easy as pop them off move and bolt 1/2 back on in the other ends holes and drill the new in the spot there needed and bolt them in and go .
 
I thought that most springs were centered with lift springs usually offset 2 inches for the extra arc of the spring. At least this was how my rears were. If its as easy as you say that's a perfect solution.
 
now lift springs maybe some . but my info for the most part is stock stuff.

but the lifted rears I have delt with tend to be stock center pin location.
 
I gotcha. My pro comp rears were 2 inch offset to the rear. 4 inch lift springs. I replaced my stock spring with 4 inch blocks that broke for the second time.
 
Well I got my stubborn on now...I'm gonna go ahead and drop the tank and move the rear hangers forward so I can use the 52" springs. I see no benefit of spending another $45 buying blocks and using my clapped out 25 year old springs. Besides, it gives me the chance to fix my sending unit wire for my gas gauge once the tank is down.

What the hell...it's only work and I'll know it's done right too.
 

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