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rear spring swap

Wicked Wolf Auto

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I'm gathering parts to redo my rear suspension when i swap a 14 bolt in my 76 k5. Plan was to put a ord 4" flip in (already have it) and 56" springs. I'm running a 4" lift currently and 35's and like the ride height so I want to stick with it. Problem is I can't find descent 56" springs, I've found 63's all over the place though. I've done the 56" swap before, how hard would a 63" swap be? anyone got a write up?
 
They're actually 64"s BTW.

IMG_2034.jpg

IMG_2033.jpg


Yes, that hanger is bolted in properly now. I just got excited and had to play around with the jack and the camera.
IMG_2032.jpg

IMG_2028.jpg


Looking at rigs in junkyards, it looks like somewhere in the '80s they moved the body mount behind the doors to outboard of the frame rail. This would make it a bit trickier than mine was (also a 1976), but certainly still doable.

Other than rivets being a pain in the ass, it's really easy to do. I am thoroughly impressed with the ride quality and travel that my 900-series trucks have in the rear bone stock, so I'm a huge fan of the 64" springs. Plus, the ones in junkyards are obviously going to be newer and better condition, and as you mentioned, plain easier to get a hold of. Being a foot longer has all kinds of benefits with travel too if you do the trig.

If you want help figuring out where to move anything, I'm happy to help you with the math. It's really simple trigonometry to get your shackle angle correct (you can't necessarily just set it to 35*, there's a lot more variables than that). A scientific or graphing calculator that has trig functions will let you just punch in numbers and receive answers without questioning the "magic" that goes on inside.

You will want at least 6" shackles. Shorter than that will really be limiting the abilities of a spring that long. Plus, the swap will require significantly less work with the longer shackle unless your chopping up the frame/body anyways. You probably won't sit any higher than you are now even with a 2" longer shackle due to the way the shackle will sit. Absolute worst case scenario would be sitting only 1" taller than you are now.
 
Also try pming kgblazerfive as he is running 63's in the rear of his Sub, IIRC. His thread is around here somewhere, but he is local and a good guy to talk to.
 
They're actually 64"s BTW.

IMG_2034.jpg

IMG_2033.jpg


Yes, that hanger is bolted in properly now. I just got excited and had to play around with the jack and the camera.
IMG_2032.jpg

IMG_2028.jpg


Looking at rigs in junkyards, it looks like somewhere in the '80s they moved the body mount behind the doors to outboard of the frame rail. This would make it a bit trickier than mine was (also a 1976), but certainly still doable.

Other than rivets being a pain in the ass, it's really easy to do. I am thoroughly impressed with the ride quality and travel that my 900-series trucks have in the rear bone stock, so I'm a huge fan of the 64" springs. Plus, the ones in junkyards are obviously going to be newer and better condition, and as you mentioned, plain easier to get a hold of. Being a foot longer has all kinds of benefits with travel too if you do the trig.

If you want help figuring out where to move anything, I'm happy to help you with the math. It's really simple trigonometry to get your shackle angle correct (you can't necessarily just set it to 35*, there's a lot more variables than that). A scientific or graphing calculator that has trig functions will let you just punch in numbers and receive answers without questioning the "magic" that goes on inside.

You will want at least 6" shackles. Shorter than that will really be limiting the abilities of a spring that long. Plus, the swap will require significantly less work with the longer shackle unless your chopping up the frame/body anyways. You probably won't sit any higher than you are now even with a 2" longer shackle due to the way the shackle will sit. Absolute worst case scenario would be sitting only 1" taller than you are now.



I did the exact same thing only swap the 4" shackle flip buckets left to right and right to left to inproove shackle angle. Puts it right @ 90 deg. aprox.
 
So were your rear hangers forward or back from where mine are, trying to understand.

If you're mounting points are .25" closer together than mine, you run a high risk of inverting your shackle under load. Further apart would be fine, but it was going to require more work on my frame, plus it limits droop.
 
I'm guessing he moved them forward, seeing that the rivets are gone and bolt are in there places...
 
My bad, I just re-read your post and I thought you were talking about how he moved the front hanger on the rear...
 
My bad, I just re-read your post and I thought you were talking about how he moved the front hanger on the rear...

The only pictures in this thread are the ones I posted of the rear suspension on my blazer :confused:

I moved the front hanger forward 5.5" because it matched up perfectly with the holes for the body mount crossmember. Made my life easier, and I didn't want a bunch of extra holes in the frame close together.

Doing it that way sets the rear axle back .5" from the stock location. I figured this would work out well with the currently stock length driveline, being taller than stock, and the 14bff pinion being longer than the stock 12 bolt. My rear hanger eye is 3" back from stock position (hanger is offset 1" and moved back 2"). This is the minimum distance between the hangers that you should run with these springs (for a 6" shackle), or you're going to have problems with inverting your shackle under compression. If you run a shorter shackle than 6", you need to spread the hangers farther apart, and visa-verse for a longer shackle (although not following the latter won't necessarily cause problems, you will just limit droop).

If you're doing this on a newer frame (early '80s+ I'm guessing), your body mounts are outboard of the frame. You will either have to move them to inboard (maybe snag parts off an older K5) of the frame, or do fabricate some sort of body mount/hanger. I don't think it would be all that difficult. It would probably be pretty easy to just make a bracket from scratch that won't crack like stock body mounts did, or possibly graft the two OEM brackets together with a bit of welding.

I'm thinking with the front spring hanger moved further away from the e-brake bracket, I'll eliminate some issues I've been having with that temporarily until I convert to discs and switch to a line-loc. The e-brake cables were always dragging on the main leaf at full droop and making annoying noises.
 
Wow, was I drunk this morning???:doah:

I totally lost track after the other guy quoted you...

Makes complete sense know...

OK, I shut up...:o


Edit: Great tech BTW...
 

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