I just installed an ORD shackle flip and 56" springs. Measuring from center of hub to fender well in front I'm 27" in the fron and 24" in the back. Whats the best way to fix this? Add a leaf or longer shackle or both?
CK5
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rear suspension????
- Thread starter Wicked Wolf Auto
- Start date
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
maybe a zero rate? use the 1 1/2'' offset and you'd be at 25 1/2'' f&r..*27-1.5=25.5/24+1.5=25.5= centered
Are you talking about your placement of axle in the wheelwell like Blazin thought? or the total lift you got?
if you need to make up 3 inches in lift i would say probably go for zero rate and longer shackle. kinda depends on what length shackle you have now. If your at 4inch right now, you would need the zero rate for the 1 inch and another 4 inches of shackle length for the other 2 of lift. But that is a long shackle, maybe some 3in lift 56's would be a better idea.
if you need to make up 3 inches in lift i would say probably go for zero rate and longer shackle. kinda depends on what length shackle you have now. If your at 4inch right now, you would need the zero rate for the 1 inch and another 4 inches of shackle length for the other 2 of lift. But that is a long shackle, maybe some 3in lift 56's would be a better idea.
MagnuM4WD
1/2 ton status
Can you be more specific about the points between you made the measurements?! I ask, because I'm not sure which point from the fender, you used and I see the things like this (if I'm wrong, please correct me!):
- front fender arch it's higher, in comparison with rear fender arch; with a leveled truck, the distance between center hub and top of the fender arch, it's bigger in front with almost 2.5".
- IMO, it's more accurate to make the measurements for leveling, after the front axle and before the rear axle, under the rocker or, under the chassis, to road surface.
- 56" rear springs, you put it on a Blazer? Does not change the position of the rear axle to the chassis, by moving the axle almost 2" in back?
- I presume, your shackles stays down and you put 4" shackles; if your measurements are correctly and you have 3" between front and rear, it looks like you need to use both: longer shackles and zero rate leaf...
I'm speaking of lift I'm trying to match the 4" lift in the front I have a stock shackle in the rear and used a 1 ton spring pack with no overloads inthe rear
I just measured the old spring pack and it as 2 1/2" think and had a 4" block the new one is 2" think, stock shackle is 4" so I'm thinking a 5" should put me right where I need to be right?
First, you need to look at how many leaves are in each, you may look into adding one into your rear spring pack.
Second, a 1" longer shackle will lift the truck 1/2". It isn't a great way to get more lift but in this case you are better off with a longer than stock shackle. Beware that this will change your pinion angle too.
As mentioned, a zero rate will give you 1" more lift and putting the overload back in will raise it up some too (not sure why anyone doesn't run the overloads, they prevent the springs from overflexing and help axle wrap).
Finally, the front springs may settle a little once they're broken in, just more stuff to think about.
Front spings are not new so settling shouldn't be an issue.
I was afraid using the overload would prevent flex but I would put it in before I put in a zero rate
I was thinking using a 5" UDSA shackle from DIY4X might be a good idea of beffing up over the stock shacklengive me the 1/2 in I'm missing
wheeler
1/2 ton status
you could always throw the overload back in too, and just put it in upside down. same theory as a zero rate, but its free!
It shouldn't, the overloads only contact when the springs become flat. If you let the springs flex further up than flat they will die (flatten, wrap, etc) in VERY short order. I've heard it many times and did it with my first set of 52's up front.
The overload only stops flex when you're springs try to go inverted, which is what destroys them. They are very effective at keeping you from overflexing your springs and they help axle wrap too, best part is they come free with basically every rear spring pack. Why people think it's a good idea to get rid of them is beyond me.
Putting them in upside down seems like an invitation to catch them on something. If you really want to use an overload for 3/4" (or however thick they are) lift then cut them down.
As a tangent, I see no real benefit/difference between a "zero-rate"/cut down overload/1" block. Yes, the first two are bolted to the spring pack by a dinky 3/8" bolt, as any of you who have had u-bolts come the tiniest bit loose know that the forces that the axle exerts on everything will bend/break that tiny bolt in an instant.
IMO the general success that people have with zero rates or the like has more to do with their small size (only 1" vs. 4-8" blocks) more so than the fact that they're bolted through the spring pack.
The little spring pin is only used (and sized by engineering) to locate the axle when it's being installed and to hold the spring pack together.
