Rear tailgate window

[Trailhound]

Okay I have fought the power window in the tailgate of my 80 K5 long enough.
What do I need to convert it over to a manual crank.
I'm sure someone has done it in here do you have any tricks on doing it?

Thank you

 

[warrpath4x4]

what part of your setup isnt working? if its slow or not powerful enough to raise it, you can rewire it with a relay and it speeds it up

 

[Trailhound]

what part of your setup isnt working? if its slow or not powerful enough to raise it, you can rewire it with a relay and it speeds it up

I have replaced the motor, cable, I have done two set of relays, I have run a #10 wire back to the tailgate from an auxiliary fuse block.
Nothing has changed. It goes up and down just fine with a drill.

 

[rampage]

I have replaced the motor, cable, I have done two set of relays, I have run a #10 wire back to the tailgate from an auxiliary fuse block.
Nothing has changed. It goes up and down just fine with a drill.

Did you run a dedicated ground wire from the motor case to the frame? From factory the ground path goes through the hinges and if there’s any rust or corrosion under them it’ll increase the resistance of ground.

 

[warrpath4x4]

I have replaced the motor, cable, I have done two set of relays, I have run a #10 wire back to the tailgate from an auxiliary fuse block.
Nothing has changed. It goes up and down just fine with a drill.

while I have not done it and do not know what all is needed to swap them, here is a link to a new regulator

https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/window_and_windshield/door_glass_and_components/parts/WR091MN?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Performance+Max+-+Brothers&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_acc=7848552874&hsa_cam=21470660307&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD1FzSoJZPVp5eJ0TfPb2_Q4-A7GV&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_JzABhC2ARIsAPe3ynpn5djDw32HNzHD9zXpvxfN_-DgV53VUIefO0FPz5e-MEcu_qK2wfYaAmHFEALw_wcB

 

[Blue85]

Does it work better or worse with the dash switch vs the tailgate one? The contacts in the tailgate keyswitch like to fail.

Does it ever roll down, but not back up? The safety switch mounted on the DS latch commonly gets dirty.

 

[Trailhound]

Did you run a dedicated ground wire from the motor case to the frame? From factory the ground path goes through the hinges and if there’s any rust or corrosion under them it’ll increase the resistance of ground.

Yes all the grounds are new

 

[Trailhound]

Does it work better or worse with the dash switch vs the tailgate one? The contacts in the tailgate keyswitch like to fail.

Does it ever roll down, but not back up? The safety switch mounted on the DS latch commonly gets dirty.

It goes down slow but gravity helps with that too. Going up and have to grab the window and help pull it up.

 

[TheDorkKnight]

You will need parts 1-8 for the manual crank handle

Tailgate Components

Explore our tailgate components_with removable hardtop for Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy and Chevrolet/GMC Suburban 1973-91. Ideal for revamping and personalizing.

www.lmctruck.com

And part 12 for manual window

https://www.lmctruck.com/body-components/bed-tailgate/csb-1973-91-tailgate-and-components_with-removable-hardtop

New seals and glass rubber if needed. Spend some time and clean up the sash/channel while you have it apart.

 

[Trailhound]

You will need parts 1-8 for the manual crank handle

Tailgate Components

Explore our tailgate components_with removable hardtop for Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy and Chevrolet/GMC Suburban 1973-91. Ideal for revamping and personalizing.

www.lmctruck.com

And part 12 for manual window

https://www.lmctruck.com/body-components/bed-tailgate/csb-1973-91-tailgate-and-components_with-removable-hardtop

New seals and glass rubber if needed. Spend some time and clean up the sash/channel while you have it apart.

Thank you
I have already replaced all the rubber seals & glass rubber in the whole truck, all of that is new.

 

[rampage]

Yes all the grounds are new

Just to be clear, I’m not talking about the ground on the engine, I’m talking about adding a new ground (one that never existed) from the window motor case to the frame. Some people don’t realize that the ground wire is just as important as the positive wire in order to make a complete circuit.

 

[USSkoval]

Just a note from the sidelines here...

With all that work done, it would seem that much of your frustration comes from an improper diagnosis of what the problem actually was to begin with. Seems like a big waste of time to just give up on it now.

The power window is still slow because you have overlooked the actual issue. Can't really blame the power window for that.

 

[Blue85]

Thank you
I have already replaced all the rubber seals & glass rubber in the whole truck, all of that is new.

New rear weatherstrip and top seals do make the window slower and that gets a little better with time. You might check that the metal clips on the belt strips aren't bend weird or something and putting more pressure on the glass than they have to. Did you replace the felt slides in the window tracks? Have you adjusted the tailgate latches? Anything misaligned there will slow the window down, but especially as the glass makes contact with the topper seal.

If your motor is getting good voltage (measuring it while the button is pressed would be useful for troubleshooting) and the window is still really slow, it's also going to be kind of hard to crank it by hand.

 

[Blue85]

I just remembered something from way back. I once found one of the rear wires had the insulation nicked and the copper inside was slowly dissolving. This makes the run high resistance and slows everything down.

If the factory wiring was great and the motors were weak, somebody would have come out with a stronger motor at some point.