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Rear u-joint failing after 300 miles...

Outlaws77

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I have a lifted 77 K10 on 37's, and just changed out the U joints cause my front one failed. Now after 300 miles my rear one is completely shot. What would be a probable cause for this?
 
Well, if you didn't' replace the rear when the front failed, it may have just been time.

Any vibes before failure?

Normally, U joints are good to replace in pairs....
 
I have a lifted 77 K10 on 37's,

Probably this.

Lifting it, usually causes the joints to work at an extreme angle, sometimes more than they can handle.
Plus, if you increase tire size without increasing the gear ratio, you throw more load on the U-joints.

With enough horsepower, you could run 37s on 3.50 axles if you wanted to, but that throws the load on the joints, transmission, transfer case, and clutch if manual.
 
improper install of u-joints .

bad angles on rear after lift causing u-joints to work at to steep a angle.

lift blocks or flip kit installed and not checking angles.

worn tranny/tcase mounts causing them to walk around and throw out driveline from working angles.

and as others said 1 bad joint NEEDS the other changed at same time when you drop a shaft for work. so mabye other was on its way out and you didnt catch it.

way to many variables to pin point . need more info / specs on truck and best if pics of rear driveline and shaft installed .
 
Figured it out, but can't find a conversion u-joint

I replaced both front and rear. I pulled it out today and remember this U-joint was a pain in the ass to find. I still cant find the correct part number for this joint, it is some kind of conversion. The asshole who sold me the truck put a makeshift driveshaft in.

I have a 12 bolt rear, a spicer 1310 u-joint (1.062" bearing cap diameter) fits it perfect, however the bearing cap that goes in the the aft end of the driveshaft needs a 1.103" bearing cap with inboard retainers. I looked everywhere and cant find one, so I bought 1310 and put the old bearing caps I got with the truck. Guess thats why it failed so soon. Anyhow, I still cant find a conversion u-joint for this thing.
 
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Well, FWIW, the oddball half is a Subaru or Nissan U-joint.
Commonly known as a 1-1610.

You can get them at AutoZone, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=186304

Or Summit, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-393/

But, those will probably not help you. If they make a conversion joint for it, its probably going to be found on foreign car sites.
For people swapping in other axles.

Not sure even there.

By far the best thing here is to take your shaft to a decent machine shop and have them put a 1310 yoke on it.

Try to find one that has a driveshaft balancer.
They are out there, but no common.

Out of several really good machine shops here in town, many of who build and repair driveshafts, only one has the balancer.

He gets all my business.
 
Its also a Spicer 5-1507X. I doubt that they make a conversion, but you might send them an E-mail with all the dimensions.
Bearing cap diameter, yoke length, placement of the locks, etc.
 
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