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Rear Window is Sluggish

Agar426

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Apr 16, 2001
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Los Alamos, New Mexico
The rear window on my '90 Blazer is becoming more and more sluggish as the years go by (for that matter, the two side windows on the doors are suffering from the same fate). When it finally goes, is there a better system out there, more modern motor, more modern regulator, etc? Or am I stuck with repairing the factory stuff? The window was never very efficient to begin with...my parents used to have an '87 full size Bronco, and the back window on that thing went up and down much better (so did the side windows). Is GM's system just simply less efficient? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
My '87 did that. Turned out that the grease in the cable between the motor and the regulator had dried out to the point that the cable could barely spin. Replaced it and the rear window worked like brand new again.

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
It's a great day to be alive...
 
Cool, you mean that if I replace the cable I won't have to start my truck to give it enough juice to go up.

I think it looks strange when I go out at 10-10:30 to put up my windows and start the truck for 30-60 seconds to accomplish the task.

Gone Large and Loving It.
Keith
 
LOL!


Probably know this ... but lube the channels and gears while you are in there! That's what worked on mine.
 
Go to manual, it was the best 250 bucksI ever spent!!!! I don't have to pray to god that my rear window will work for me. Just my .02 cents. I did it all myself taking my time and cleaning stuff in less that 3 hours.
Ben 87 Jimmy
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bens87toy.coloradok5.com>http://www.bens87toy.coloradok5.com</A>
 
I'd go with the channels because it seems they'll go OK in some spots but just barely move in others. My doesnt even work because a retard did the work before I bought it so thanks to him I need new channels, wiring (cut-out, key), torque rods, gaskets, rubber stop, and a latch.

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Suspect your alternator is going bad because it's the side windows also. Mine was doing the same. Ended up replacing the alternator. All work better.
 
hey, I just replaced the chanels, motor, cable, and everything else in the back windows and I still have sluggish problems (thats not why I changed all that)

I took it to a good body shop guy, and he showed me that the weather stripping on the outside of the window (sorry, don't know the technical term
laugh.gif
) is old and real hard...

He put some WD-40 to prove if that was it or not, and it worked great. I'm going to replace that strip...

<font color=blue> Jeff </font color=blue>

solo.jpg
wookie.jpg
 
<font color=purple> When I boughtr my Blazer it had no rear latch assembly at all. I bought one at the local Chevy dealer and now it doesn't work ......... Can the key assembly be put in upside down ? You know what I mean ? Does it hit contacts one way and not the other ? Could I have it in upside down ??

L8r,
. Riz . <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</A>

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I took out my cable today, sprayed Zep 45 through it a few times, and loaded it up with Mystik aerosol grease, and it's the fastest window I've ever seen on a K5. I also gave the motor a cleaning and lubed the regulator while I was in there. Took about an hour total.

pancho-2_new.gif
 
Thanks everyone for all of the great suggestions. I already have considered replacing the alternator with a higher output unit for other reasons, but I was hoping it would help this out as well. I am also going to tear into it and clean and lube it really well. Thanks again!
 
wookie,
I think your problems will only get worse with new weatherstripping. I put new side rails, cable, motor, weatherstripping, pretty much everything except gearbox and regulator assembly in mine. The new weatherstripping was so tight against the window it would barely move. I ended up cutting the inside weatherstripping so there was only about a 14" long piece in the middle, nothing else. I don't think it does much except hold the glass against the outside strip anyway, and that little piece will do that. The window goes up and down pretty good now, but I was thinking about running a larger power wire directly from the battery and see if that helps. Once I get frustrated enough at it though, I'll put on a soft top and rip it all out.
 

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