Rear window will not go down

[rvest1]

My K5 rear gate window will not roll down. Last week it worked fine. I press the button and I can hear int try to engage but nothing happens. I can not open the tailgate without rolling window down. I just got this truck and I want to put the 38.50 TSL Radial in the back so it doesn't get stolen (it is just sitting under the truck right now). My key doesn't seem to do anything when I put it in the rear lock slot, What is it supposed to do?? It is just a big rectangle shaped metal thing and I don't see how it could do anything. I apologize if this seems retarded, but I have never even been in one of these before and am quickly learning tons. I already removed 4 1/2 inches of body lift with 3" remaining and took the 44s off of the rear replacing them with 38.5s and 36s on the front. Now I need to put a 4.11 front axle in to replace the 3.73 and match the rear 4.11 full floater that is in it. I have only had fuel injected cars (Fiero's and Jeep Wrangler/Cherokees) before and never dealt with carbs or leaf springs or even a V8. I consider myself good with cars and a quick learner but this is quickly becoming a huge task to learn and apply.

Thank you for any help with the hatch issue. I apologize for rambling.

 

[American84K5]

Lol my key switch on my tailgate stopped working a year ago.

I'm going to say either your windows motor has bit it, the interior switch or even the little window latch 'safety' switch (no clue what it's called) that makes sure the gate is close before allowing the motor to move the window.


My bet is the latch safety switch.

 

[Blue85]

The rear key slot is just a switch. It should provide the same function as the switch on the dash. However, they tend to eat their contacts after a while. It's also possible that the hot wire going to the tailgate is broken or unplugged.

To get the window down, climb in the back of the truck and remove the access panel. You can pull the cable off of the motor unit and put it in your cordless drill. With the tailgate open you should be able to figure out why it won't go up and down. It's possible that all you need is some lube on the mechanism.

A common problem is the safety switch connected to the D.S. tailgate latch. The contacts get dirty and it has enough resistance to neuter the motor. This switch is also famous for causing the "rolls down but not up" problem.

 

[blazin' j]

x2 with above statements...i have a ? tho...y would u put 38.5's on tha back n 36's on tha front??? that will throw ur front & rear ratios off...

 

[Blue85]

Well you need like a 3.84 ratio in the front axle with 36s to match your 4.10 in the back with 38.5s. There is a 3.90 available for the 10-bolt which would probably be fine for off-road.

Why not run matched tires?

 

[rvest1]

Thanks for all the info guys. The reason for 36s in the front and 38.5s in the back is that I just got this truck and it came with 3 38.5 TSL SSR and 1 44 Groundhog. Some guy traded me 2 36 Mickey Thompsons for the groundhog. I removed 4.5" of Body lift leaving 3" (the guy had stacked a 4.5" steel spacer on top of a plastic 3" spacer). I do not know why but some genius left a 3.73 10 bolt in the front and put a 4.11 12 bolt in the rear so someday when I get some money I will have to change one or the other. I am trying to make it street legal for MI roads so that I don't get pulled over all of the time (can not afford that ticket) Street Legal is Bumper no higher that 26" at bottom of bumper (front and rear) and frame no higher than 24" at dead center. I got myself into a mess because I know nothing about carbs either. I had a '92 chevy 4x4 with a 350, but it was fuel injected. It keeps running fine for a couple starts then fouling the plugs and I can not afford to keep buying plugs just so I can start it to keep it lubed until I can afford plates for her. Anyway thanks for your help. I will see if I can get her open now.

Rich

 

[rvest1]

Drove back to my parking spot and started trying to get the back window to roll down. When I hit the button I can hear it engage but will not roll down. More stupidly than everything else I had done I wired the window switch open and tried to roll it down while pressing against it. When I pushed too hard on it PPshhhhhhttttt it shatterred. Now it is snowing and I have no tailgate window. WOW wish I had money for that; I guess I will have to find a cheap tarp or plastic wrap to cover it from the snow until my GI Bill sends me my tuition check so I can buy a new rear hatch window.

Anyway the Quadra-jet carb is stamped 78 on the side. Does that mean that it is from a 78 model year truck? If so does that mean that my engine is the same? The guy I got it from a few weeks ago said it was not the stock engine (came with a 302). I guess back out to clean the glass out of my truck. My apartment people are going to complain about this for sure.

 

[Jessie James]

Oh that sucks. You could probably cut up a piece of cardboard and put it in there in the meanwhile.

I was going to say that my window wasn't working because the screws that hold the gearbox-to-geared-arms came loose and the gears were not touching. I tightened the screws and all was good.

 

[rvest1]

good idea. now to find some big pieces of cardboard