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rear window

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by aknight_sa, Dec 14, 2006.

  1. aknight_sa

    aknight_sa 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Oct 14, 2005
    Likes Received:
    Saudi Arabia
    hi all,

    i have been having tons of problems with my rear window... now its stuck.. doesnt go up nor down.. just a sound of the motor... is there a way to change it from auto to manual??
  2. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester

    Feb 24, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Watch for the muzzleflash!
    Might want to clean the contacts or pull the motor and check it but it's probably your regulater, pull the screws on the panel on the inside on the gate and look around...
  3. txfiremank5

    txfiremank5 1/2 ton status

    Jul 6, 2004
    Likes Received:
    San Antonio, TX.
    Your cable may be all ginked up. Open the panel and have someone try to roll it up or down and see whats going on. Sometimes the cables just get in a bind too. But, more than likely it's time for a new one. Check it out to be sure.
  4. ZooMad75

    ZooMad75 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Apr 5, 2003
    Likes Received:
    Pueblo, CO
    I havent tried to convert one from power to manual (or vise-versa), but I can tell you if the rollers/tracks are dry on the regulator neither style will work. My Manual setup wouldn't roll all the way up when I first got it. Not sure of what the problem was I got another regulator from the JY, cleaned it up and added new rollers. Once I got mine apart I found the tracks were dry, but did have some amount of rust scale inside them. The rollers were comletely worn flat on one side (like a sideways D). I pulled the old regulator and practially fell apart on the bench. I wire brushed the tracks to clean out the rust and coated them with a heavy amount of grease. Once I put it all back together the crank can be turned with one finger.

    Power gates have the same problem. Water gets in from the top, collects in the tracks and if they are not greased, rust develops. Eventually the rollers stop rolling due to the rough surface and they end up sliding over it. That's when they start wearing. All this friction puts an addtional load on the motor and cable. Sooner or later it can't over come it and something breaks. On a manual it's usually the potmetal crank handle. On power it's the cable/gear or motor itslef.

    One trick though, if the motor quits but the regulator looks to be OK and you have to get the window down or up, take the panel off and break out your cordless drill. hook it up to the cable and run it down or up.

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