CK5
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Rear windows
- Thread starter Drey
- Start date
Muddytazz
1 ton status
Buddy of mine has a 91 with a factory manual rear window so I don't know why its not possible to swap over.
You just need to bolt in a new crank handle, as well as a manual regulator.
Why would you do this? The electric rear is plenty reliable.
Is yours slow? Take apart and lube EVERYTHING. If you open the tailgate, then click the latches closed manually, you can roll it up/down onto a work bench to get to the pivot points.
Also, supplementing the window motor ground strap with another ground cable directly to the vehicle frame/body in the rear (not to the gate) helped mine a lot.
Is yours slow? Take apart and lube EVERYTHING. If you open the tailgate, then click the latches closed manually, you can roll it up/down onto a work bench to get to the pivot points.
Also, supplementing the window motor ground strap with another ground cable directly to the vehicle frame/body in the rear (not to the gate) helped mine a lot.
quinryan
Registered Member
That said, can anybody recommend the best plastic sheeting and duct tape to use in sealing one's rear window?
Actually, I can, but I'm not at home right now to give you the numbers. I ususlly use the 6 mil plastic that you get in the paint department of home depot.
Its not all that clear, but it is really tough.
If you want to continue to use it to look through, get the 2 mil stuff. Its prone to tear, but is fairly clear.
The black stuff stands up to UV better, but you cannot see through it.
All duct tape is not equal. Not even close. I found some that sticks better than any I ever saw, and you have to cut it, it won't hardly tear.
Its not all that clear, but it is really tough.
If you want to continue to use it to look through, get the 2 mil stuff. Its prone to tear, but is fairly clear.
The black stuff stands up to UV better, but you cannot see through it.
All duct tape is not equal. Not even close. I found some that sticks better than any I ever saw, and you have to cut it, it won't hardly tear.
You can also jumper the connector for the safety switch (blue wires, IIRC), then just leave it that way. We're not idiots, we know when we should or shouldn't operate the window
My Blazer is manual and I like it that way, my Burb is power and I like it that way. There goes your theory
You can also jumper the connector for the safety switch (blue wires, IIRC), then just leave it that way. We're not idiots, we know when we should or shouldn't operate the window
I am definitely not bypassing that switch. It has NEVER given me any problems, just tells me when myself or someone else didnt' shut the tailgate properly.
Mine just plain didn't work anymore... which I found out in the dead of winter when the window wouldn't go back up. I fixed it for good, lol.
xoticautowerks
Newbie
Same here mine is completly dead and I've been trying to find a used one to throw in there because hooking up my drill to the cable isn't fun anymore haha
quinryan
Registered Member
That cable/screwdrive thing was working very well for me until the damn cable came off the regulator. Cannot for the life of me figure out where that attached. Time to put the top on the ol' Wrangler, I guess.
I bought an a1cardone rebuilt motor at napa. Did not change anythig else. Thing flies up and down. Under 5 seconds each way. The outer seal was also wedged when I was done. Took it out for now.
How hard is it to change?
I have never successfully changed a window motor, but haven't tried in YEARS.
Sure i could do it, but wondering how long it took you. I clean/lube mine regularly, and have added an additional ground....but it still hates COLD.
