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rear yoke question

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bigblaze76

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well I hope I even calling it by the correct name...

my question is i had my 14 bolt rebuilt with new a locker,new ring and pinon. the yoke was bolted to the pinion... bla bla but the driveshaft was never bolted to the yoke...

the guy buillding my driveshaft was not sure the size of the yoke so he asked me to unbolt the yoke from the pinion and take it to him...

now that the driveshaft is done I'm ready to bolt everything together.

but...

I read in an article on this site that I can't just bolt the yoke back to the pinon...is this true I have to replace crush sleeves or something to that effect...please help I dont want to tear up my rear axle before I even get a chance to use it.
 
You are correct, 14 bolts use a crush sleeve which means if you remove the yoke you will mess up the pinion bearing preload.

If its the stock FF 14 bolt yoke, its a 1350 series. Its very common, your driveshaft guy should know what that is.
 
yeah you are right you would think he knew...but we wanted to make sure...and I probably did not do a good job of splaining...

so how do i fix my problem...obviously replace the crush sleeve but how do i do that...and BTW tahnks for the quick reply
 
Id pull the entire pinion cage, the 6 bolts that hold on the pinion housing, and bring it down to whomever did your gears and have him set it back up, and save the shims that come off, he will change the crush sleeve and give you the completed pinion cage with bolted down yoke for install reusing the pinion cage shims.
 
Ok, so you unbolted the yoke from the pinion already?

Lucky for you, its really easy on a 14 bolt. Remove the 6 bolts that hold down the pinion support and pull the pinion support out (you may need to put the yoke and nut back on and tap on the yoke to get it out). Then put the pinion support in a vice and use a hammer and punch (in the little pocket in the center of the pinion, don't hammer on the threads) to drive the pinion through the pinion support.

Replace the crush sleeve, and put it back together. ALWAYS replace the pinion nut, its a one time use thing and will completely destroy your rear end if it comes loose (good insurance for $1 or so). As you tighten the pinion nut again, you are pressing the upper pinion bearing back onto the pinion shaft. Eventually you will hit the crush sleeve and it will become more difficult to turn the pinion nut. At this point you will need to use a torque wrench (with a dial) that reads inch-lbs. Continue tightening the pinion nut until the required pinion bearing preload is reached (something like 20-40 in-lbs for new bearings, IIRC).

Then put it back in the truck and you're done.
 
Wow!!!

I would have prob bolted it up if i had not read the article on this site....and prob with my luck would have destroyed everything

thanks guys for the replies!!! MUCH APPRECIATED!!!

ONCE I GET PAID I WILL HAVE TO REGISTER TO GIVE SOMETHING BACK TO THIS SITE ,IT'S OWNERS AND MEMBERS :bow:

THANKS AGAIN :D
 
Ya know I dont buy into this whole thing we've been discussing lately. Bolt it back down to the same range of torque it was at and I'd put money you'd never have premature issues with the rear.

If you really wanna be a stickler for numbers than get yourself an inchpounds torque wrench, the old bar style that you can see moving as you torque more. The method to tell if the preload is correct is by the inch pounds of drag to spin the yoke.
 
Stomis said:
Ya know I dont buy into this whole thing we've been discussing lately. Bolt it back down to the same range of torque it was at and I'd put money you'd never have premature issues with the rear.

If you really wanna be a stickler for numbers than get yourself an inchpounds torque wrench, the old bar style that you can see moving as you torque more. The method to tell if the preload is correct is by the inch pounds of drag to spin the yoke.
Click to expand...

I can say I've done this before with no ill effects. Old truck I had when younger. i was also in the same boat though... they told me to bring them the yoke after everything was new. Zero miles on it and plugged everything back up and drove it. worked perfect and still does to this day (nephew's truck) can't say it'll always be that way but... better safe then sorry I would say.
 
Mountain_man said:
I can say I've done this before with no ill effects. Old truck I had when younger. i was also in the same boat though... they told me to bring them the yoke after everything was new. Zero miles on it and plugged everything back up and drove it. worked perfect and still does to this day (nephew's truck) can't say it'll always be that way but... better safe then sorry I would say.
Click to expand...



especially when I cant afford to rebuild it again
 
thanks for the info

yeah my buddy who was helping me with all the mechanical stuff moved away so I am just flying by the seat of pants...and did not want to make any major mistakes
 
so i started doing this and have a question...

once I remove the 6 bolts should the pinion come out with the pinion cage or do I have to do something special to get the pinion out...

I got the cage out but the pinion didnt come out with the cage
 
Thanks for replying...

Cage is what another guy called it..on the post.

Yeah I took it off but the pinion stayed...I did get it off by pulling really hard...

So I think I'm good to go...

I was just going to post that exact same link...
 
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