CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rearching springs

Pure Insanity

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 17, 2001
Posts
4,579
Reaction score
0
Location
Culleoka, Tennessee
What are yalls thots on this. I have a friend that has springs tweaked all the time and hasnt had any problems so far. He has had several inches done and I was wondering about getting 2 more inches in my 6" springs. He has an account w/ the company that does it and he can get them done for 35 bucks. He is having a set of 12 in done now by them. I think those are all new and not a rearch. But he has had them tweak 12 " to 14" w/ no problems.

If ya can't stop.......Smile as you go under!
smile.gif
 
rearched springs will always sag out. go with new ones.

<font color=blue> Experience enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.

</font color=blue>
 
Thats what I always heard but he has had good results, which is why I was wondering what everyone else thot. I dont know anyone other than him personally, that has done it, so I dont have much else to go on.

If ya can't stop.......Smile as you go under!
smile.gif
 
14 inches? Wow, that's got to be ROUGH on driveshafts.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
If the shop knows what they are doing and how to properly temper metal, rearched springs should give no trouble.
I had a spring/blacksmith shop that I trust rework my stock springs and add 2" of lift. I have had no problems with setteling or sagging. and I use my K5 hard and tow quite a bit.
It all depends how good they are working with metal. Tempering metal is really an art and not everyone can do it right. If people are satisifed with that shop's spring work they probabally have a good blacksmith who knows what he is doing.

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze</a>
<font color=blue>NEVADA: Where the pavement ends, and the West begins.</font color=blue>
 
I had 2 sets of front springs rearched for the front of my '76 Blazer. Where the hammer tracks from the rearching of the springs were, cracks started developing and the first set broke. Both sides, both springs within a month. I took them back to where I had them done and they replaced and rearched those. They broke also---My opinion--for what it is worth--I am going to just buy used springs and run the springs on the front with three leaves rather than two. I don't know what the deal was but the guys seemed to know what they were doing. It was a big shop in Denver. They made springs for different applications, but I guess I am just too hard on equipment!!

k5woody I Don't Understand The Jeep Thing Either!!!
 
In fact it was GM springs on a Yota so it was closer to 16-18 in. of actual lift. They didnt compress a whole bunch! (not much sprung weight for fullsize springs) But actually he had some kind of hybrid shaft made from PTO parts from a tractor, some stock Yota stuff, and who knows whatelse and a turned front axle. He could sit under the truck and spin the shaft w/ absolutely no binding. He also used cheap bolts on the flange so that they would break before a joint did. He carried a box of the correct bolts, nuts and washers w/ him just in case he needed them but only twisted the bolts off twice. I will try to get pics of it. It was something to see.

Ya know I may have just answered my own question! He uses GM springs on Yotas, w/ not much sprung weight for the fullsize springs! No wonder he never has problems! He has built 5 Yotas on 44s over the last 15 yrs, and has built EVERYONE the same way. His thing is once he gets it done he gets bored w/ it, sells it and builds another just like it. Each time it gets a little better tho.

If ya can't stop.......Smile as you go under!
smile.gif
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom