reasons for 6.2L being "gutless"

[RootBreaker]

'J' code:

No EGR crap at the inlet area so it flows a ton more air.

My Dad used to have an '86 Ford F350 with the NA 6.9 and it had about the same power as my 6.2. A turbo really makes a huge difference, and it's somewhat easy to swap on 6.5 TD parts or use the Banks sidewinder kit.

The sidewinder kit will get you ~450 lbs of tq to the rear wheels...

Rene

so does an air cleaner just sit on top of that?
I was trying to get a trailer hitch off of a suburban... factory diesel this weekend.. motor is still there and I was contemplating on asking the guy how much.... but saw what you have shown up above.... so thought the "CARB" was missing

hmmm wonder how much for the truck.... could get the motor, wiring and all other stuff to get r done....

 

[bavarian_blazer]

@tRusty:
I have a (ERG-) 1982 Engine in my 84 K5 and I'm thinking about converting to a J-code intake mainfold and I'm not quite sure about it. Does it bolt right into place or have I to change any other stuff, too? What do you think?

Greetings from Germany

Florian

 

[6.2Blazer]

As already mentioned "gutless" is a relative term. Go drive just about any stock GM truck from the early to mid-80's and I would consider them all gutless compared to newer offerings. A family friend bought a new '86 K5, nice looking rig, but had an emissions choked 305 and 3.08 gears........can you say SLOW. I'm pretty confident that when stock my '90 with the 6.2 could have easily outperformed it in all circumstances. Speaking of which, when I bought my K5 in '94 my dad had been driving a '92 2wd 1/2 ton with a TBI 305 as a work truck.....he thought the K5 had just as much seat of the pants power as his lighter 2wd truck (BTW, the TBI 305 had a higher factory hp rating than the 6.2).

Along those lines, go drive any other stock diesel offering of that time period. I put quite a few miles on my grandpa's 6.9L N/A Ford, more torque than a 6.2 while pulling a trailer but when empty I doubt it was much if any quicker off the line. I've also driven a 1st gen Cummins truck.....ton's of torque about again they were way slow when empty.

 

[Pookster]

heck, I dunno about you guys, but my 6.2 burb takes off the line faster than my friend's 6.0 excursion. Granted, once his turbo starts to spool, its a different story.

Its also a totally different story towing too. His just spanks.

 

[6.2puller]

Funny you mention the 6.0, I had a guy go past me on the highway the other day with a huge grin on his face. He was in a Superduty 6.0 with a cigarette boat in tow and I was in the C10 with my might 6.2 pulling a K5 with some other scrap on the way to the crusher. I was happy just to be keeping the speed limit Got to the scales and truck and trailer weighed in at 14,600. Not bad IMO.

 

[6.2puller]

@tRusty:
I have a (ERG-) 1982 Engine in my 84 K5 and I'm thinking about converting to a J-code intake mainfold and I'm not quite sure about it. Does it bolt right into place or have I to change any other stuff, too? What do you think?

Greetings from Germany

Florian

You really need to pay up and become a member here so you can check out the diesel forum. Those guys in their know their stuff and it will save you way more than the small cost when you start diagnosing issues with your diesel. I know I have saved a few hundred easily through their knowledge. Not to mention all the headaches.

 

[tRustyK5]

so does an air cleaner just sit on top of that?
I was trying to get a trailer hitch off of a suburban... factory diesel this weekend.. motor is still there and I was contemplating on asking the guy how much.... but saw what you have shown up above.... so thought the "CARB" was missing

hmmm wonder how much for the truck.... could get the motor, wiring and all other stuff to get r done....

Yeah the air cleaner assembly just sits on top of the intake as you see it. Diesels are 'unthrottled' and will run just as fine without an intake altogether.

Rene

 

[tRustyK5]

@tRusty:
I have a (ERG-) 1982 Engine in my 84 K5 and I'm thinking about converting to a J-code intake mainfold and I'm not quite sure about it. Does it bolt right into place or have I to change any other stuff, too? What do you think?

Greetings from Germany

Florian

The 'J' code is a direct replacement. Unbolt the 'C' code intake, bolt on the 'J' code (with new gaskets of course)

I took the time to match the intake ports to the new gasket set using a die grinder and a carbide burr. The factory casting isn't the most accurate on the intakes. I compared the gaskets to the intake ports on the heads and was pretty happy with size and alignment, especially compared to the intake.

Rene