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Rebuild of Blue85 post fire

Rebuild of Blue85
Overview Gallery Discussion
On to the cowl area. Wiper linkages lost some joint sockets due to melting. I was able to melt the AWOL joint back in, so theoretically I could run it, but the seals are wasted and there's a bit of slop, so it would only be temporary. I can't find a source for just the plastic socket inserts, so I've reached out in the Parts Wanted section.

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One of the washer hoses is Bluetooth, so I'm planning to replace them. We've been discussing part numbers here: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/wiper-arm-mounted-washer-hose.348053/
 
Not sure if your shooting for all oem, but I've bought a full set of wiper transmission lines (what they call the bars for some reason) and the pivots new somewhere.
Not sure if it was lmc or brothers.
They weren't really that expensive from what I remember. Like less than $100 or not much above it.
 
shady said:
Not sure if your shooting for all oem, but I've bought a full set of wiper transmission lines (what they call the bars for some reason) and the pivots new somewhere.
Not sure if it was lmc or brothers.
They weren't really that expensive from what I remember. Like less than $100 or not much above it.
Click to expand...
Looks like I've lined up a set. The reproductions are available, you just can't get replacement socket joints, you have to buy the whole linkage.
 
I finished the cowl area through a combination of sandblast, wire brush, acid brush, neutralize, self-etch and rattle can paint. Full cans of paint can paint sort of upside down, where you can't fit an HVLP and hose.20240717_183728.jpg

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I have the DIY4x dash in place, even though I'm sure it will come out several times yet for wiring and making the digital dash work. Screen and 2 discrete gauges mounted. Lots of work required to make it fit. Custom switch panel on order - hope it comes in time. New carpet has arrived.

I was scheduled for a windshield today, but they've pushed it till tomorrow. LMC wants $160 + the gasket + $150 freight, so after disposal of the old one having the shop do it is cheaper.

I got a care package from @kennyw
today and one of the items was this cover for the recirc vacuum can.

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Lucky I found a blue one, right? But look what's in the back of the cabinet from decades back:
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Feels almost full and still squirts. Not bad!

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The new "zipper seal" is a cheaper option to the old one we're all familiar with, with the locking strip. It doesn't lay flat and looks kind of wavy :dunno:. That's what they had, I guess. Most important thing will be if it holds water out.
 
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Dash wiring is progressing and new switches and stuff are here. It doesn't seem likely I can be on the road week after next for the annual "overpacker" trip.

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Some parts are still in the mail.
 
Dash wiring takes a while. Part of it is the sins of my past.
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Since the cluster is gone and I'm running only 2 physical gauges (oil pressure and fuel level), there's a lot of changes to make. I've been soldering wires to the factory cluster connector and it seems to be a pretty simple solution.
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It's amazing how much wiring is needed to roll your own dash. Having 2 complete independent electrical systems does complicate things.

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Since the Hydroboost has been leaking into the cab, I've been meaning to address that for the last year or 5. With new carpet in the shop, it just seems dumb not to fix it now. There are no official instructions for pulling the staked pedal rod out of the input shaft, but it looks like I may have gotten lucky.

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Did it as discussed here: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/leaky-hydroboost.339681/#post-4371032
 
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Hope my 15 minute rebuild is good. Only replaced the input shaft seals and figure-8 seal. Worked the big square nut with a chisel and hammer. Put it back the same with blue loctite.

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Here's my LCD. It's a China special high brightness unit. I customized it with a different inverter (the blue board) that auto adjusts with ambient light (had to add a couple of posts to the frame). The first screen I got had NO backlight adjustment, so back it went. I can't imagine having to stare one of these down on a dark rainy night with nothing but darker color choices. If it's not enough I may have to make some circuit that interfaces with the headlight or dimmer circuit.

As you can see, the buttons are on the back. I'm not sure what use case they have in mind, but I have this one configured to Auto power-on and go to HDMI. Theoretically I don't need the buttons, but I've relocated the remote sensor so in case the need arises I can just find the remote control.

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This proto Pi hat I'm building will power up the computer when the key is turned on and let it keep power on after the key is turned off. This lets the Pi exit apps and do a clean shutdown before it loses power. If you don't do this, the SD card will eventually get corrupted.

It also has signal conditioners from vehicle signals to the Pi GPIO, so I can display them on the dash. Stuff like Highbeams on, turn signals, parking brake, etc. I'm hoping to show the state of transmission lockup, A/C clutch and others eventually, but like I keep saying, for now it just needs to run.

I have the GPIO inputs mapped and the dash software is reading them, so it's time to run some more wires.

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View attachment 20240808_210654.mp4

BTW, in case anyone was wondering, if you show your coil connections swapped in your drawings and then years later follow your drawings, it really doesn't want to start. I always say you should leave your documentation in good shape for the next guy because the next guy is probably you.
 
I have no idea about the computer screen stuff, I'm still stuck in the white face Auto meter gauge era, but nice work. I'm sure it'll be better than it was before.

Also damn prepping a cowl for paint sucks hard hand sanding in between all those vents.
 
I started sandblasting it, but my sandblaster was working like crap and it was taking forever. Plus, sandblasting sucks. The local shop has a $50 minimum and I couldn't think of anything else ready for blasting. So I got out the paint stripper. There were probably 3 coats of blue under what I had put there, then white primer then black primer. Took a few days outside. When the stuff is soft, a wire wheel in a drill throws it right off and that fits in the slots.
 
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