This is a straight axle, so alignment issues are simple or just don't exist. It's independent suspensions that need alignment more than once in a blue moon.
Caster (aka castor, the front to back angle) is set by shimming between the axle and the springs. If your alignment was okay before i.e. the castor angle was within spec, it shouldn't change by rebuilding the axle.
Camber (the side to side angle) should be absolutely set as it's a straight axle. IF the spindles are not parallel to the long axis of the axle, there are shims available to go between the knuckle and the spindle. However, if the spindles aren't parallel, my feeling would be that the balljoints are shot (most likely) and/or the spindle is bent (unlikely). Since you're replacing the balljoints, this should be covered and you need not worry about it.
You didn't ask about toe-in; presumably you're replacing the tie rod ends, but you know to count turns when turning the old ones out, and then turn the new ones in the same number of turns, right?
ANYWAY, point is, rebuild the axle, getting it as close as you can, and then run it by your alignment shop. They'll put it on the rack, measure and adjust the toe-in, and measure castor/camber and give you a nice printout with that info.
If one of the camber angles is WAY out of whack, you can shim it, but I'd consider replacing the spindle at that point, plus check for damage to the knuckle or the axle 'C'. If the castor angle is way off, you could shim the axle at the spring pads, but that's only likely if you've changed springs or hangers.
HTH.
-- A
