K1Orion
1/2 ton status
I'm rebuilding my quadrajet so my junk will run better and hopefully pass emissions. I also posted this on pirate. I bookmarked and read almost everything at http://www.florida4x4.com/tech/quadrajet/ and have done a lot of searching but I still have a few questions. Maybe The CK5 crew can help me out.
Is it possible to rebush the throttle shaft without a drill press? I need to buy a kit and see what is included (or maybe just buy bushings) and see what the instructions say but I figured I'd ask here.
I read that setting the float "a little low" will make it run better at angles because it won't load the carb up. How low should I set it? I'm looking for a # here, I found "between .375 and .400 for a street driven car" on the florida4x4 link, but this isn't a street driven car.
I also read that you can epoxy in a small piece of metal to create a reservoir around the jets to prevent it from starving on climbs. Anybody got any opinions on this? How tall should the "dam" be. Any experiences from anybody who has actually tried this? Is this necesary if you run the carb backwards like I plan to?
Anybody got any pics of a backwards Q-jet setup? Any tips? Linkage seems to be the only real issue. I already have a spreadbore/square bore adapter to mount it with.
The rebuild kit I bought has a different needle seat than the ones in my parts carbs, which are all 78-81 truck carbs.
The ones I have all look like
but the one in the kit has slots in the sides of the seat. What's up with that? Should I reuse the 1 that was in it or use the new 1?
Any body got any suggestions on what primary jet/rod, secondary rod, and power piston spring to run? It had 073 jets, 51 primary rods, and DR secondary rods. This carb is going on a 80 long bed pickup with 350/465/4.10s and 38s. Motor is stock except for an old aluminum single plane intake and headers with 2.5" exhaust.
Thats all I can think of for now, I'm sure I'll encounter more as I start puttin the carb back together. Now I'm off to the JY to "accumulate" various power springs, jets and needles to tune this thing with.
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Is it possible to rebush the throttle shaft without a drill press? I need to buy a kit and see what is included (or maybe just buy bushings) and see what the instructions say but I figured I'd ask here.
I read that setting the float "a little low" will make it run better at angles because it won't load the carb up. How low should I set it? I'm looking for a # here, I found "between .375 and .400 for a street driven car" on the florida4x4 link, but this isn't a street driven car.
I also read that you can epoxy in a small piece of metal to create a reservoir around the jets to prevent it from starving on climbs. Anybody got any opinions on this? How tall should the "dam" be. Any experiences from anybody who has actually tried this? Is this necesary if you run the carb backwards like I plan to?
Anybody got any pics of a backwards Q-jet setup? Any tips? Linkage seems to be the only real issue. I already have a spreadbore/square bore adapter to mount it with.
The rebuild kit I bought has a different needle seat than the ones in my parts carbs, which are all 78-81 truck carbs.
The ones I have all look like
but the one in the kit has slots in the sides of the seat. What's up with that? Should I reuse the 1 that was in it or use the new 1?
Any body got any suggestions on what primary jet/rod, secondary rod, and power piston spring to run? It had 073 jets, 51 primary rods, and DR secondary rods. This carb is going on a 80 long bed pickup with 350/465/4.10s and 38s. Motor is stock except for an old aluminum single plane intake and headers with 2.5" exhaust.
Thats all I can think of for now, I'm sure I'll encounter more as I start puttin the carb back together. Now I'm off to the JY to "accumulate" various power springs, jets and needles to tune this thing with.
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$8.99 to put a ziploc with 5 1" long springs in a 3ft. square box full of styrofoam and gay stickers and other propaganda I don't want. I don't think so.