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Recentered h1's..??

Smokinthehippies

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I see alot of people talk about recentering the h1's. And talk of pressed or welded centers.


Not to sound dumb but why? What is wrong with running the standard wheel? Is it possible to run it as is or does is it have be recentered. Appreciate all the help. When I search it just brought up threads that said recentered nothing bout why...?
 
From my understanding, a standard H1 wheel has about 7" of backspacing, too much to run on most stock vehicles without some type of spacer.

The real big idea is that you get a steel double beadlock wheel in the backspacing and lug pattern of your choice for pretty cheap, plus being able to run the cheap military style tires you can get from guys like "hundred dollar man"

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2246011
 
the cheap tires are not whats cool about them, its that its a double beadlock with only 8 or 12 bolts!! soon you will see more of the 24 bolts.

a 42 TSL fits very nice on the H1s though.

they are a direct bolt up when youre using dually axles, dont want to buy 400 dolla hubs? buy 100 dolla wheels. then you can run 14 bolt SRW hubs on the dana 70 rear, and it nearly matches up perfectly with the DRW 60 front. or just a 2 inch spacer.

personally, i like the look of the 12 bolts.
 
My wife's brother-in-law put a set of non-recentered H1s on his one ton military Chevy pickup with the bias ply 36" Goodyears that came on them and they don't look like they're sucked to far inboard. If you were running wide tires they probably wouldn't work. They look pretty cool though.
 
What's the benefit of the 12 bolt over the 8 bolt? Is it just more evenly dispersed clamping??

What's the opinion of trail worthy fab?? Seems like he's got some good pricing?
 
I think the 8 bolts are the older versions and you can get them a little cheaper most of the time.
 
You need to get on govliquidation.com. That's where the dude I'm talking about got his. I think he gave $220 for all four wheels and tires (60% tread on the Goodyears). They were at the Air Force base where I work, so I did him a favor and picked them up for him.
 
I think the 8 bolt is for bias ply tires and the 12 bolt is for radials. I think I heard that somewhere. Not 100% sure though.
 
Well where is my set?!?
Thanks il check that sight out. A guy I kno can get them new for $50 ea n but that's not recentered
 
Well where is my set?!?
Thanks il check that sight out. A guy I kno can get them new for $50 ea n but that's not recentered

You will like that site. That's where you can get entire trucks pretty cheap, you just have to go pick them up yourself or arrange for someone to get them for you within a specified period of time.
 
the sealing design of the 8 bolts and 12 bolts is very different. The 8 bolts are not rated for radial tires and are only rated for 30 psi, where the 12 bolts are rated for radials and higher PSI. If money allows go for the 12 bolts they are less prone to leaking. As far as running them with out re centering them you need a spacer or dually hubs up front. In the back you don't need anything but it looks funny. I currently have stock hummer rims on a dually front and stock srw rear, the rear is pretty narrow compared to the front, someday i will add spacers
 
awesome, thanks for all the replies guys. that actually helps me understand alot better.
cant wait to get 8lug setup so i can get these wheels an tires going.
 
hey andy, have you ever bought anything off that site? how does it work? i found a truck on there i want to buy. what do i gotta do? lol
 
search gov liquidation on here, theres a few threads on it.

and trailworthy fab is actaully an excellent deal IMO. ive got five brand new 12 bolts just found a set of wide regular bead locks.
 
hey andy, have you ever bought anything off that site? how does it work? i found a truck on there i want to buy. what do i gotta do? lol

You have to register and get a user name and password. It doesn't cost anything. Then you can put in your credit card number for them to charge (I think. It's been a while since I've been on there.) Some of the auctions are sealed bids, meaning you can't see how much anyone else has bid and you won't know if you won until the auction ends. Other auctions are like e-bay where they have a closing date and time and everyone waits until the last few hours to bid.

You can get smoking deals on there sometimes though. I've seen one ton CUCV trucks with no engine in them go for $400-$600 dollars. That's with the TH400 auto, NP205 t-case, D60 front and 14 bolt rear! Running trucks like that will usually go for $2500-$3500. 1/2 ton CUCV Blazers go for $2000-$3000 or less in running condition.

My brother in law is always buying trucks and Blazers off there and re-selling them. He's got a couple of them in pieces just lying around waiting for me to break down and buy parts off of from him.
 
I run the 8-bolts from trailworthy. Is 30psi a problem? Only if you have tiny tires and over-inflate in hopes of more MPG (the bigger the tire, the less pressure it needs for the same load). But if your tires are tiny, do you need double beadlocks? If your tires are huge you need to admit that MPG is not your primary goal.

As for compatibility between bias and radial, it's only an issue if you run the military locks/runflats (even then, many are report success while mixing parts). Most civilians are running PVC inserts anyway, which work with either.
 
What's the opinion of trail worthy fab?? Seems like he's got some good pricing?[/quote]



He does have killer prices > I recently purchased a set of 37s from him. Shipped fast, one tire was dry rotting so i called the man about it. No questions asked he ups shipped my an additional 37. Customer service was top notch IMO. As far as the wheels themselves i saw DIY4X was doing them too, and his was looking the most bad ass ive seen, and will get them from him when $ allows
 

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