Recommendations on SYE? (NP241)

[NorCalAnthony]

Hey Guys,
I'm hoping to finally get around to lifting my rig with my upcoming tax return and swapping in the axles I picked up earlier this year. Since I'm using a Ford D60 I picked up a driver's drop NP241 to go with it and I'm thinking I might as well do a SYE and get the driveshafts redone (buy once cry once). I'm looking at JB Conversions but I'm not sure if I should do their standard length or the super short version and if I should do a flange or one of the yoke setups? I'm also not sure what the difference between their 1310 CV yoke and their 1350 non-CV yoke is? I'm leaning towards the shorter version for the little extra driveshaft length it'll give me but I'm not sure beyond that. I keep hearing people say go flanged so you can run a CV shaft to eliminate vibes but I don't know if that's necessary with only 4"-5" of lift and 35's. The other concern I have is I'm planning on swapping in a 402 LS/4L80E next year which looks like it'll add 2" or so to the trans length and I don't know if that'll throw off the driveshaft angles enough to make the CV unhappy/start vibing versus going with a yoked SYE where I can hopefully keep the t-case output angle the same after the drivetrain swap... What do you guys think?

Truck is an '84 K5 with the 6.2 diesel and 700R4. I'm doing 4" TC EZ Ride springs in the front and a 4" shackle flip in the rear with zero rates to recenter the axles and will be running H2 rims and 315/70/R17 tires (H2 take-offs) on a '79 Ford Snowfighter Dana 60 and an '04 AAM 10.5 14 bolt.

Thanks,
Anthony

 

[jekquistk5]

JB really is the only name in the game for the 241. Id do super short, with a flange so you can run a cv style drive line. I'll be ordering their standard SYE with the flange for my Mechanical 241.

 

[mrk5]

I've run the standard JB kit for nearly 10 years, tons of trails and road miles. Haven't had a problem.

 

[NorCalAnthony]

JB really is the only name in the game for the 241. Id do super short, with a flange so you can run a cv style drive line. I'll be ordering their standard SYE with the flange for my Mechanical 241.

So you don't think the t-case output moving a couple inches back would affect the CV driveshaft at all? If that's the case then I think you're right, the super short version with a flange would definitely be the way to go.

FWIW I saw ORD sells a SYE for the 241 but it doesn't come with an output. They say it uses standard 32 spline yokes (like from a 205) but it'd have to be shortened by 1/4" which would add to the cost and make the swap more complicated. I also saw Jesse at HAD now has a SYE for the 241 on his webpage that he calls a short shaft kit but the site is kind of confusing about descriptions and pricing so I might have to give him a call. HAD is about an hour and half away from me so that might be another good option. Both the ORD and HAD SYE's look almost identical to JB Conversions standard length version so I wouldn't be surprised if they get their stuff from them.

I've run the standard JB kit for nearly 10 years, tons of trails and road miles. Haven't had a problem.

Thanks for the feedback. Is that on the '89 R3500? I tried looking through your thread but at 158 pages and counting I figured it'd be easier to ask lol. I don't think I've run across one bad review of the JB kit so I was more asking which JB kit to get and not if I should get one from them...

 

[mrk5]

I actually used that NP241 in both my K5 for about 5 years and in the 89 for about the same now.

I bought my JB Conv kit from HAD so I know that's what he's selling. I'm pretty sure that's what ORD is selling. They are not reinventing the wheel, just selling it as a vendor for JB Conv.