Reconditioning an old engine

[Metalhead47]

Hi all. After months of delays, I'm FINALLY starting to move ahead with my gas-to-6.2 conversion on my '90 'burb. The donor engine is out of an '84 2wd 'burb with just shy of 100k on the clock. Steam cleaned it yesterday and verified that yes, there is in fact an engine under all the crud.

So now I've got a squeaky-clean 26 year old engine on a stand. So the question here is, what should/MUST I do to recondition it for it's new life, short of a rebuild of course? On the "for sure" list so far:

New glow plugs
Vavle cover gasket (small leak)
All guage senders & switches
Water pump
PS pump
starter
all rubber bits & hoses

Any critical items I should add here?
On the "maybe" list:

rear main seal: I plan to switch to synthetic oil once it's close to running, no leak there right now but switching an old engine to synthetic can make them pop up. From what I understand it's fairly easy & cheap to do while the engine's out of the truck

Stud girdle: worth the expense/effort, as long as I have the oil pan off for the above?

oil pump while I'm at it? (old engine died of oil starvation, now I'm a little paranoid about it)


Figured this would bea longer list actually. Any upgrades I'm missing here? Also, what can I do to keep the engine in good shape until startup day? It's going to be many months yet before it's even in the truck, let alone running. I remember hearing about a trick when rebuilding a 350 to run the oil pump with a drill motor, can something like that be done with a 6.2 to keep everything oiled & prevent corrosion?

 

[kennyw]

I would make sure you get the timing chain and head gaskets replaced while you are in there. The stock head gaskets are a known weak link and the timing chains take a beating on the diesels. Also, inspect the harmonic dampner very closely. If the rubber is cracked or bulging at all, replace it now before it takes out the crank.

Yes, front and main seals should be replaced while you are in there. It is so much easier to take care of while it is on the engine stand than inside of the engine bay. With the gaskets you should replace, it is best to buy a complete engine gasket kit and get them all.

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

if ur going to run a turbo u need the stud girdle, but if ur then its just a waste of money, if u can go ahead and take ur injectors and IP to diesel service shop and have them check the line pressures on the IP, as well as the injectors, weak injectors and low fuel pressure can cause the engine to feel slugish or even bog down down under heavy load. also spring for the stud kit for the heads in place of head bolts. lowers ur chances of blowing a head gasket and they ar only a little bit more the new head bolts, DONT REUSE THE OLD HEAD BOLTS, they r a one time use deal according to the U.S ARMY service manual, witch is the best dog gone manual out there, try and get ur hands on the PDF FILE copy its extreamly helpful. any other questions just drop me a line.

 

[Metalhead47]

if ur going to run a turbo u need the stud girdle, but if ur then its just a waste of money, if u can go ahead and take ur injectors and IP to diesel service shop and have them check the line pressures on the IP, as well as the injectors, weak injectors and low fuel pressure can cause the engine to feel slugish or even bog down down under heavy load. also spring for the stud kit for the heads in place of head bolts. lowers ur chances of blowing a head gasket and they ar only a little bit more the new head bolts, DONT REUSE THE OLD HEAD BOLTS, they r a one time use deal according to the U.S ARMY service manual, witch is the best dog gone manual out there, try and get ur hands on the PDF FILE copy its extreamly helpful. any other questions just drop me a line.

Where are you finding stud kits for "only a little bit more" than bolts? All the bolt kits I've seen were under $50, all the stud kits way north of $150

 

[Wrench]

Typically head bolt kits for the 6.2/6.5 diesels include bolts for ONE HEAD ONLY. Even the parts guys behind the counter usually don't know this. So double those prices you're getting.

Factor in the cost of head gaskets, and the fact that you'll never have to worry about doing them again, and it's well worth the extra $50 or so bucks.

Kenny is right on the money, add timing chain and head gaskets to your list. I personally wouldn't bother with the water pump unless it's clearly bad. I was taking good pumps off engines that I was parting out, until I got a pile of 7 or 8 in my garage and realised that I probably would never have to replace the one I had in the first place . . . .

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

the head bolt set on auto zones web site and adavance and napa, all only cover one head not both i know i found out the hard way.

 

[Metalhead47]

I was going off of Summit's site, but looking again y'all are right, one head per bolt kit. But the stud kit they list is still $180, over $100 more than two bolt kits. Not discounting you guys, just want to be sure I'm not missing some great deal of which I'm ignorant

Timing set: yup, that was on the list too, knew I missed some stuff. I remember seeing a timing gear set somewhere before for the 6.2, but now I can't find it. Any insight on that?

Water pump: either way it's gonna be sitting on the workbench at some point, and it's cheap, might as well replace it. I don't plan on collecting engines

Speaking of water pumps, what's the deal with using a dual thermostat housing from a 6.5? I've seen some conflicting reports on the matter. If I can snag one at the junkyard, that might justify finally dropping the cash on a gas cylinder for welding aluminum. Assuming it's an easy weld to tweak what needs tweakin on it.

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

i always just reuse the stock 6.2 thermostat housing, the only advatage to using a daul thermostat housing is the engine heats up faster. but i run electric fans and have never had a problem with the engine heating up in the winter NEVER my heater in my crew cab can smoke u out of the cab. but if u run the stock fan that runs off the water pump then u will need to cover half to a third of the radator in the winter or the engine will never heat up, hints y u use electric fans im the winter time when we r going down the highway my fans never come on the engine will only come up to about 180 - 195, but in stop and go trafic it will cycle on and off all day long.

but if u do run thr 6.5 daul thermostat housing the thermostat housing will keep the engine at a steady temp with out block off the radator ether way.

oh and up grade to the 1000 watt block heater, if the truck sits out in the weather dearing the coldest mounths but only if u plan to start the truck for some fun in the snow. the stock block heaters only a 650 watt or an 850 watt

any other questions?

 

[Metalhead47]

i always just reuse the stock 6.2 thermostat housing, the only advatage to using a daul thermostat housing is the engine heats up faster. but i run electric fans and have never had a problem with the engine heating up in the winter NEVER my heater in my crew cab can smoke u out of the cab. but if u run the stock fan that runs off the water pump then u will need to cover half to a third of the radator in the winter or the engine will never heat up, hints y u use electric fans im the winter time when we r going down the highway my fans never come on the engine will only come up to about 180 - 195, but in stop and go trafic it will cycle on and off all day long.

but if u do run thr 6.5 daul thermostat housing the thermostat housing will keep the engine at a steady temp with out block off the radator ether way.

oh and up grade to the 1000 watt block heater, if the truck sits out in the weather dearing the coldest mounths but only if u plan to start the truck for some fun in the snow. the stock block heaters only a 650 watt or an 850 watt

any other questions?

LOL I live in Seattle (kinda). Probably don't have what you'd call winter, comparatively. If they see even a single snowflake around here they declare a state of emergency. If it actually reaches the ground, EVERYTHING shuts down and the whole western half of the state calls in sick . Come to think of it, I don't even think my donor engine has a block heater.

Anyways, I thot the advantage to the dual thermostats was to improve cooling, along with a hi-flow water pump?

I plan on going with electric fans too, that worked great on my Samurai (except that time I forgot to tell my wife about the lil switch and it overheated in traffic), and it makes soooo much more room to work on stuff!

And I have enough questions to fill a small book at this point. Trying to take things one step at a time right now. Truth be told I probably won't even touch the engine for weeks yet, got a list of stuff I need to get remedied on the chassis first. But I do appreciate the offer

 

[kennyw]

Two good batteries and 8 good glow plugs are all you need out here. I have a cold weather front from my '83 K20 still, but I only used it once two years ago (and it wasn't even nessissary).

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

the daul thermostats do have a higher flow and that but my 6.2 in my truck is pushing 350 h.p. and thats squeasing every last bit of engine from every last corner of the that engine. im running 6.5 turbo port matched heads, 100 shot of methenal injection and a few more secret tricks here and there but over all in low low in the t-case and first gear in the tranny the truck is putting out a little less then 1500 ft. lb. of tork at the rear wheels, more then enough to make drive shafts and u-joints fail. and im still running the stock 6.2 water neck. never had a problem with over heating but im also running ford windstar fans.

 

[Metalhead47]

the daul thermostats do have a higher flow and that but my 6.2 in my truck is pushing 350 h.p. and thats squeasing every last bit of engine from every last corner of the that engine. im running 6.5 turbo port matched heads, 100 shot of methenal injection and a few more secret tricks here and there but over all in low low in the t-case and first gear in the tranny the truck is putting out a little less then 1500 ft. lb. of tork at the rear wheels, more then enough to make drive shafts and u-joints fail. and im still running the stock 6.2 water neck. never had a problem with over heating but im also running ford windstar fans.

I didn't know 350 was even possible on a 6.2. Running the stock water pump too yes? If the stock neck is adequate I'll gladly take what I would have spent there and devote it towards the radiator, fans, etc.

 

[Wrench]

the daul thermostats do have a higher flow and that but my 6.2 in my truck is pushing 350 h.p. and thats squeasing every last bit of engine from every last corner of the that engine. im running 6.5 turbo port matched heads, 100 shot of methenal injection and a few more secret tricks here and there but over all in low low in the t-case and first gear in the tranny the truck is putting out a little less then 1500 ft. lb. of tork at the rear wheels, more then enough to make drive shafts and u-joints fail. and im still running the stock 6.2 water neck. never had a problem with over heating but im also running ford windstar fans.

You got a dyno sheet to prove it? Not hatin', just know that it doesn't happen very often What turbo do you have on there?

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

its an "A-team" turbo. look it up anther good web ist to check out is the "truckstop.com" http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?25410-A-Team-Turbo also u can tweak the hell out of a 6.2, every body gives them a back rap for being under powered but the 6.2 is my personal choise for a good strong power plant and u can squease a $h1t load of power and an omg amount torck. i wouldnt put it up agains a built up cummins but i would deffently put it up aginst any power stroke out there. do ur home work and research and plan it out and u can build a frame twisting drive shaft eating diesel. also look at roler rockers theres power to be made there, talk to people chat DO UR HOME WORK, and if u dont have the money for an inter cooler then look in to methenal injection ethere a 49 to 51 mix or even a 35 to 65 mix the more water u mix in the more heat u take out of ur engine, but on the flip side the meth will give u an extra boost just dont kick it in to really, i have found out threw trile and screw up that highway running 1500 rpm just right, off roading any where from 1000 to 2000 depending on ur teast i like have mine a set up two different ways, threw a toggle switch and one on the IP.

look around, threws a very large group of ppl that keep uping there power that they r getting out of these little engines.

hell theres a guy that takes 6.2 bloks and heads and turns them in to gas burning race car and hot rod engines, becausee of the high comp.

check it out.

 

[Wrench]

I'm familiar with the A-team turbo, and I have done my homework. Also know that several guys have broken the 400HP mark with a 6.5. Built a number of them, and made some pretty crazy power by seat of the pants feel, but I'm not going to put numbers on them because I don't have facts to back those numbers.

I'd still like to see that dyno sheet.

 

[Indy4x4Fab]

we r in the prosses of packing and getting ready to move to the shop as well as in to a new house but ill keep a look out for it and if i dont find it ill try to get back down to evensville to the place i tested my truck at so i can get ather print out for u all. because my trucks set up with a 203 daubler, its the only way i could keep from eating up 14 bolt rear ends. spreading the torck load out over two axles, does help alot, also allows me to get off the line quicker. but ill find it and post it again.