What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Redrilling Leaf Springs- Thoughts?

stumpjump

stumpjump

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Posts
400
Reaction score
6
Location
Glen Burnie, MD
I have been thinking about re-drilling my front 52" springs to 28/24 or 29/23 instead of 26/26 to move a 1/2"-1 1/2" forward of my current axle location and be able to loose the zero rates I have up front which already move it an 1 1/2".

I'm planning on re-drilling and welding up the old holes then grinding then smooth- does anyone think this will substantially weaken the main leaf? I was originally going to run dodge rear leafs which already have the off-set center pin, but not only will they not accept my brand new poly bushings, but I don't have the dodge springs and I have 2 sets of chevy 52's.

Let me know what you think.
 
#1 Good luck drilling through springs
#2 welding the old hole up will ruin the temper in the spring and it will no longer be a spring
#3 leaving the hole will just make the spring weak there
Get the dodge springs and new bushings.Hell the poly bushing arent gonna break the bank =)
 
I don't see a problem with redrilling the center pin hole, I've done it many times. DON"T weld up the old holes though the heat will only weaken the spring and cause it to break around the weld.

Drilling springs isn't the funnest thing in the world if you've never done it. The trick is to have nice sharp drill bits (preferably cobalt) and use low speed, a lot of pressure and lots of high sulfur cutting oil. Did I mention to keep the drill bit speed low?? by low I mean under 300 RPM or you will ruin a lot of drill bits. Make sure you have drill bit sharpener on hand.

You should only have to drill the main leaf and possibly the second leaf and just slide the others forward.
 
Madspeed said:
#1 Good luck drilling through springs
#2 welding the old hole up will ruin the temper in the spring and it will no longer be a spring
#3 leaving the hole will just make the spring weak there
Get the dodge springs and new bushings.Hell the poly bushing arent gonna break the bank =)
Click to expand...


#1 I've drilled through spring packs before and other than being time consuming and hard on bits its not to bad.
#2 Thanks for the info I wasn't sure what effect it would have on the springs temper
#3 it will certainly be the weakest point in the spring but will a 1/4" hole in the middle of a 2.5" spring be weak enough to be a point of failure?
I haven't found a set of dodge springs yet and I just got these bushing, not a bank breaking deal it's just nice to be able to use what you have.

bigblock72 said:
I don't see a problem with redrilling the center pin hole, I've done it many times. DON"T weld up the old holes though the heat will only weaken the spring and cause it to break around the weld.

Drilling springs isn't the funnest thing in the world if you've never done it. The trick is to have nice sharp drill bits (preferably cobalt) and use low speed, a lot of pressure and lots of high sulfur cutting oil. Did I mention to keep the drill bit speed low?? by low I mean under 300 RPM or you will ruin a lot of drill bits. Make sure you have drill bit sharpener on hand.

You should only have to drill the main leaf and possibly the second leaf and just slide the others forward.
Click to expand...


In your experience have any of the springs failed at the old centering pin hole?

dfl701 said:
dont do it, keep the zero rate
Click to expand...
kgblazerfive said:
Yeah you should only have to drill the main the others should be ok.

Still wouldn't do it.
Click to expand...

have either of you seen one fail, or do you think it just isn't worth the risk?

38377k5 said:
How about making new center pin holes in your spring perches along with using the zero rate?
Click to expand...

I know you can do this on the dif side but I don't think you can on the long tube perch, can you?

I'm reworking my front suspension and i want to go 2" lower, my hope is that by loosing the zero rate and changing my 7.25 shackle to a 6" I can get close to having ~3" of lift.
 
Jist cuz drilling it would be such a pain and their are other options, zero rates dodge leafs etc.

The failing part dont think it would happen but it is another hole
 
uh maybe i missed something but what are these dodge leafs you all are speaking of? I have kept up pretty well on the 52" stuff but dont remember hearing about the dodge stuff. Still 52" but wth the centering pin off-set to the front or rear an inch or two?
 
I have heard that Dodge did a set of centered 52's, I know that Chevy did a set of centered 56's cuz I have a pair. Mine were on a van so they mught be to.
 
kgblazerfive said:
Jist cuz drilling it would be such a pain and their are other options, zero rates dodge leafs etc.

The failing part dont think it would happen but it is another hole
Click to expand...

I'm not overly worried about it failing either but I wanted to see what the great CK5 thought before possibly wasting my time. I carry an extra main leaf and centering pins anyway but I don't want to set my self up for failure.

y5mgisi said:
uh maybe i missed something but what are these dodge leafs you all are speaking of? I have kept up pretty well on the 52" stuff but dont remember hearing about the dodge stuff. Still 52" but wth the centering pin off-set to the front or rear an inch or two?
Click to expand...

kgblazerfive said:
I have heard that Dodge did a set of centered 52's, I know that Chevy did a set of centered 56's cuz I have a pair. Mine were on a van so they mught be to.
Click to expand...

Dodge put out a 52" rear springs in both a 24"/28" and a 26"/26" so some where centered and most where offset. Chevy did the same sort of thing with their 56" springs, most where 26"/30" but some like on the vans where 28"/28".
 
In your experience have any of the springs failed at the old centering pin hole?
Click to expand...

I have a set up springs on my blazer right now that the 3rd leaf IS broken at the factory center pin hole. Other side pack broke the 4th leaf.
 
I have a welded carbide drill bit I use for drilling leaves . I have broken a few main leaves but never at the hole.
 
I wouldnt do that, theres alot of other options, even if others have had it work. seems like something that would be done on a demo car or something.
 
Just drill the perches and the spring plates. I got 1 1/4" forward with my D60 doing that and never had a lick of trouble with it. Hell of a lot easier than drilling leafs.

I've drilled leafs before, and although they never broke it was a PITA. I'd say as long as the old hole is between the U-bolts it's pretty unlikely they're gonna break. It will definitely be the new weak spot though.

Rene
 
Does anyone have pics from redrilling their spring perches? I'm interested in using this solution but some pics of the long tube perch drilled would be particularly helpful. Thanks for all the input everyone.
 
I redrilled the existing holes in my front leafs and it was a PITA! I put larger center pins in mine because they kept breaking/bending.

I say go for it but like tRusty said, "keep it inside of the ubolts".
 
stumpjump said:
Does anyone have pics from redrilling their spring perches? I'm interested in using this solution but some pics of the long tube perch drilled would be particularly helpful. Thanks for all the input everyone.
Click to expand...

Tube side

004-4.jpg


Pumpkin side

003-3.jpg


Rene
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom