im going to be running 52's up front, and want to push the axle forward another 1" or so from the 2-2.5" the 52's net. i dont want to run a zero-rate. how much farther back can you drill the hole on the pass side and still have it safe?
CK5
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redrilling perches to move axle forward on d60
- Thread starter muddybuddy
- Start date
bigbluesuburban
1/2 ton status
Coming from the structural steel industry here is a rule of thumb.
Your hole should be at least one diameter away from the edge of the plate. This means that if you have 1/2" dia pin, the distance from the edge of the plate to the edge of the hole should be no less that 1/2". Also this applies to a drilled or machined hole, not a flame cut hole.
This is not carved in stone, but like I said it's a good rule of thumb.
Your hole should be at least one diameter away from the edge of the plate. This means that if you have 1/2" dia pin, the distance from the edge of the plate to the edge of the hole should be no less that 1/2". Also this applies to a drilled or machined hole, not a flame cut hole.
This is not carved in stone, but like I said it's a good rule of thumb.
Leper
1/2 ton status
Good info there.
anybody got access to a d60 right now that could measure? im away from my truck so i dont have access to my 60 to see how far forward it will end up net'ing
I'll be doing the same thing, post up when you figure it out.
has nobody else done this? i thought that more people had tried it
sorry dude, im wondering the same thing
DPI
1/2 ton status
You are probably tired of hearing from me on this stuff, but I moved my axle forward 1" by drilling the D60 perches. You also have to drill the top plates for the center pin clearance.
This is the only pic I could find here at work that kind shows location of the front axle. I trimmed more of the front fenders due to tire to fender contact under flex. I posted those pics in your fender trimming post.
This is the only pic I could find here at work that kind shows location of the front axle. I trimmed more of the front fenders due to tire to fender contact under flex. I posted those pics in your fender trimming post.
Sounds like as good a logic as any.bigbluesuburban said:
you could always drill an new hole through your spring pack.
DPI said:You are probably tired of hearing from me on this stuff, but I moved my axle forward 1" by drilling the D60 perches. You also have to drill the top plates for the center pin clearance.
This is the only pic I could find here at work that kind shows location of the front axle. I trimmed more of the front fenders due to tire to fender contact under flex. I posted those pics in your fender trimming post.
dpi, thanks for the info. so after you drilled the hole 1" back there was still plenty of room to keep its strength?
You could always get a new perch from DIY4x or Ruffstuff.muddybuddy said:
mrk5 said:
i thought about that but how will that work with the pass side perch on the 60?
DPI
1/2 ton status
Yeah, there was plenty of room left. IRCC the perchases are 5" long. So redrilling an inch from center is no problem.
I was working from the assumption there is more room to play with on the passenger side cast pad. The driver's side has that extreme radius at the ends.6.2Blazer said:
Grind it till its round and weld on a perch. ....Thats what a couple guys have done at teraflexmuddybuddy said:
did it on my 60, as I wrote in the 52" spring swap tech article. I drilled exactly 1" behind the stock holes. I don't know exactly how far from the edge that left me (more than 9/16" though)... but just looking at the perch I wasn't willing to move the center any more than that. Something about drilling any closer to the edge just tweaked my shady-tree engineer spidey sense.
j
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Chaddy said:
hmm, maybe i could get some "lift" perches as well to keep down the arch of the 52's so i can still get ~6-7" lift
gmc4cw said:
Sounds like a bad idea to me. Others seem to have had troubles with breaking springs that way.
