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Regearing 10 bolts, good or flushing money down toilet?!?!

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mattcorleone

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Is it at all worth regearing to 4.56 with the stock 10 bolts or am I just pi$$ing money away? I suppose the much better option that is still economical would be to find a 14 bolt for the rear, regear that and the stock front 10 bolt? I don't have a lot of money to blow and I don't want to burn up a fresh tranny running around with 35's and 3.73's. Whaddaya think? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
If you can find a 14ff with the gears you want then you would only have to upgrade the front. You could probably find a 14ff for the cost of regearing your 10 bolt. I think 4.10's are pretty common for the 14ff. Maybe 4.56 would not be that hard to find /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
Put the shifter in 3 not OD and get your parts gathered up first. I like my 12 bolt as I was in a bind , and now love it , but 14 bolt is way stronger ( just didn't want to do the rest of the changes yet ) . I am lugging around with 3.08's and 33's and my trans is fine . So I say drive it and get everything together first to minimize downtime /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Sometimes swapping the axles is cheaper than reagearing them. Especially if you will pay somebody to set up the gears. The problem is in finding 4.56 10-bolts.

A front 10-bolt is worth regearing. It's a full-floater, after all. After all, the alternative is finding a front Dana 60, which can cost as much as another K5.
 
if your planning on 35s, do what was mentioned above and locate all the parts you need for the swap and just keep it out of OD. but remember, if your driving in 3rd all the time the tranny will get quite hot, i would advise you install a tranny temp gauge to keep tabs on it. you should have one anyway.

the front is worth re gearing but if you want 35's now, you'll most likely go bigger in the future, so might as well upgrade now.35's are the absolute limit with a 10bolt rear.

i'd keep a look out for someone who is upgrading to a 60 and wants to sell their front 10b thats already re geared.
dont forget youll need to buy new 8 lug wheels as well.

military 14bff came with 4.56 and detroit lockers in them,but they are a little hard to find.i'd look around in trader mags like the recycler for a good deal.

that being said i regeared both my 10 bolts with 4.56 and dont regret it. but i did the labor myself and i only run 33's. plus you cant get an ARB air locker for a 14, and i wanted one.
 
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if your planning on 35s, do what was mentioned above and locate all the parts you need for the swap and just keep it out of OD. but remember, if your driving in 3rd all the time the tranny will get quite hot, i would advise you install a tranny temp gauge to keep tabs on it. you should have one anyway.


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Why would driving in D heat up the tranny?
Not trying to cause an argument, just trying to figure it out...


Isn't driving in D instead of OD just taking away your overdrive thereby keeping your RPM's higher? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

But with 3.08s and 33's his RPM's are low anyway (it's what I have too /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif) so the adverse higher RPM's would be nullified...wouldn't it?

So in order to make up for it, downshifting would be the key....I think /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

I would think driving in OD with really low RPM's would be more likely to increase temps.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
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Why would driving in D heat up the tranny?
Not trying to cause an argument, just trying to figure it out...

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the reason is that the 700 has a torque converter thats locks up in 4th gear(OD) .if you leave it in 3rd the converter is slipping, and a slipping converter is the biggest source of heat in an automatic tranny.

the 700 is very sensitive to high fluid temps. more than a th350 or 400(so im told).

i just replaced my 700 a couple weeks ago so all the info is fresh in my mind. the tech guys where i bought it from say if you plan to drive alot in 3rd(like for towing) you should install a manual lockup switch so you can lock up the converter in 3rd or even 2nd.

the main reason my tranny went out was because the lockup converter failed and so the tranny would always slip, this made the temps skyrocket, which made the pump overheat and fail, and the seals hardened and leaked.

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But with 3.08s and 33's his RPM's are low anyway (it's what I have too ) so the adverse higher RPM's would be nullified...wouldn't it?

So in order to make up for it, downshifting would be the key....I think

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it does make sense to use third and keep the rpms up, i just want to make sure he knows that doing so will heat up the fluid more. he said he doesnt want to burn up his fresh tranny so i thought i'd let him know.



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I would think driving in OD with really low RPM's would be more likely to increase temps....

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if the tranny doesnt lock up, ya it would get hotter in that situation, but if his tranny is operating correctly, it wont change the temps much at all. it will make the engine work harder and possibly hotter, and be a pig too.

what i would do is install a manual lockup switch and a temp gauge, then you could drive all day long in third without worrying about heating up the fluid.
 
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the reason is that the 700 has a torque converter thats locks up in 4th gear(OD) .if you leave it in 3rd the converter is slipping, and a slipping converter is the biggest source of heat in an automatic tranny.

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The torque converter clutch in my 700 would lock up in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear straight from the factory.

If a 700R4 didn't lock up in 3rd, every guy towing with one would have destroyed it a long time ago.
 
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The torque converter clutch in my 700 would lock up in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear straight from the factory.



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what year is your tranny? thats the first time i've ever heard of a tranny locking up in 2,3, and 4th gear from the factory. did you buy it new off the lot? is it a 1/2 ton or 3/4? if its a 3/4 maybe they figured it would be towing alot and wired it to handle the abuse.

all i know is how my tranny is set up and how bowtie overdrives trannies work. i was looking at the wiring for the converter(that four wire plug) and one wire is for automatic 4th lockup and the other is for manual lockup.

if your tranny has key on power to the manual lockup circuit it will lock up in each gear after 1st.it would need to have a vacuum switch hooked to the relayso it will unlock when you step on the gas.my truck doesnt have a vaccuum hookup to the relay, or at least it doesnt work. maybe they wired yours that way from the factory. it does make more sense to have it set up like that.


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If a 700R4 didn't lock up in 3rd, every guy towing with one would have destroyed it a long time ago.

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ya i know. like i said it makes sense to have it lock up in 3rd, but the new tranny i've got doesnt. and the old one i took out was already toast and never locked up so i dont know how that one worked. so chances are his tranny might not either.

it would be a good idea to at least find out how the tranny locks up before you go driving around in third thinking everything is fine.
 
I just can't see regaering 10 bolts. Maybe the front, but defently not the rear when you can find a 14 bolt for it.
 
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