cegusman
3/4 ton status
This weekend I will be installing a mini spool up front, what is required to reinstall the carrier correctly. Don't want to F*CK anything up.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
reinstalling front carrier
- Thread starter cegusman
- Start date
Never done a mini-spool but, my understanding is that you shouldn't need to remove the carrier for a mini-spool. Mini-spools just replace the spider and side gears, just like a lock-rite.
cegusman
3/4 ton status
The center pin hits the ring gear , so I have to remove the ring gear to get the pin out. I think I have tha thick gears
cegusman
3/4 ton status
i was wondering if i could just unbolt the ring gear from the carrier while it is still in the axle, and move it just enough to get the pin out.
Hmmm, well, from what I've been able to find, you will have to remove the carrier with thick ring gears. Maybe someone else can provide other alternatives.
As for the carrier, that's one of the few things I've really got no experience with r&r. I asked a similar question here a few days ago, but I have to remove mine to replace the inner seals on my front D60. From what I'm told, as long as you keep things straight and put them back just like they came out, it's not a big problem. It just takes time. Only potential problem is getting the carrier back in. It's heavy, and a VERY tight fit. Most can be coerced back in with a rubber mallet, some require a case spreader (you can rent but be careful, you can bust the housing with one). I'll be trying it without the spreader, maybe tonight, maybe tomorrow. You’ll also need torque values for you bearing caps and a suitable torque wrench. That’s about all I know…
BTW, take my advise, if your doing a front axle, put inner seals in while your in there. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
As for the carrier, that's one of the few things I've really got no experience with r&r. I asked a similar question here a few days ago, but I have to remove mine to replace the inner seals on my front D60. From what I'm told, as long as you keep things straight and put them back just like they came out, it's not a big problem. It just takes time. Only potential problem is getting the carrier back in. It's heavy, and a VERY tight fit. Most can be coerced back in with a rubber mallet, some require a case spreader (you can rent but be careful, you can bust the housing with one). I'll be trying it without the spreader, maybe tonight, maybe tomorrow. You’ll also need torque values for you bearing caps and a suitable torque wrench. That’s about all I know…
BTW, take my advise, if your doing a front axle, put inner seals in while your in there. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
i don't know what kind of axle you have, but I can contribute from the standpoint of a 10-bolt. For a 10-bolt, you will remove your carrier by removing the caps on each side of the carrier. When you remove them, note which side they came off and which way they were pointed. You must put them back on EXACTLY as they came off.
Then, remove the carrier keeping track of what shims are on each side. You will need to put the same shims back on the original sides in order to keep your gear mesh the same. DO NOT LOSE OR MIX THE SHIMS or you are screwed. The carrier is heavy. Weighs about 20-30 lbs. The teeth on the gear are sharp. You may need a crowbar to get the carrier out. Or, rotate the pinion via the driveshaft. This should "walk" the carrier out.
When removing the ring gear, you will need to secure the carrier in a vise of some sort. In addition, the ring bolts ARE REVERSE THREAD. When you remove them, you should throw them away. You should never reuse ring gear bolts. Now you can do what you need with the carrier.
When reassembling, use new ring gear bolts with loctite and torque to the proper setting. Reinsert the carrier into the housing. If it is snug, put in whatever shims you can and "drive" the others in using a rubber mallet. My shims from the factory were single thick shims. If I had the carrier out slightly, I could get teh shim started. I then used a pry bar and a rubber mallet to drive the shim and carrier into the housing together. Once all shims are in, rebolt the carrier beraing caps exactly as they were removed. Torque them properly and all is done.
Here are the torque specs for the various axles/carriers. I know for the 14 bolt, it uses dial adjusters instead of shims for the carrier. If you are dealing with one of those, note the exact position of the dial adjuster before removal. Note exactly how many turns you "undo" the adjuster for removal. Reapply the exact number of turns after installation.
I hope this helps some.
Then, remove the carrier keeping track of what shims are on each side. You will need to put the same shims back on the original sides in order to keep your gear mesh the same. DO NOT LOSE OR MIX THE SHIMS or you are screwed. The carrier is heavy. Weighs about 20-30 lbs. The teeth on the gear are sharp. You may need a crowbar to get the carrier out. Or, rotate the pinion via the driveshaft. This should "walk" the carrier out.
When removing the ring gear, you will need to secure the carrier in a vise of some sort. In addition, the ring bolts ARE REVERSE THREAD. When you remove them, you should throw them away. You should never reuse ring gear bolts. Now you can do what you need with the carrier.
When reassembling, use new ring gear bolts with loctite and torque to the proper setting. Reinsert the carrier into the housing. If it is snug, put in whatever shims you can and "drive" the others in using a rubber mallet. My shims from the factory were single thick shims. If I had the carrier out slightly, I could get teh shim started. I then used a pry bar and a rubber mallet to drive the shim and carrier into the housing together. Once all shims are in, rebolt the carrier beraing caps exactly as they were removed. Torque them properly and all is done.
Here are the torque specs for the various axles/carriers. I know for the 14 bolt, it uses dial adjusters instead of shims for the carrier. If you are dealing with one of those, note the exact position of the dial adjuster before removal. Note exactly how many turns you "undo" the adjuster for removal. Reapply the exact number of turns after installation.
I hope this helps some.
Ahh, I see what you are getting at.
FWIW, when I've needed to swap ring gears in my 10 bolts, I loosen the ring gear bolts while the carrier is still in the truck. With a worthless impact wrench, and no way to hold onto a rounded slippery piece of metal, it worked best to loosen them (they are reverse thread) while it was still in the vehicle. They are REALLY on there tight as far as I can tell, and I just couldn't grip the carrier enough to free them. You can rotate the carrier while its in the axle to reach all the bolts.
However, I never tried loosening the ring gear from the carrier while installed. I kinda doubt you will have much luck doing so, but picturing the carrier in my head, the ring gear teeth face the passenger side, and mesh with the pinion. To push the gear to the passenger side, which is the "removal side" (as I see it in my head) you'd have to get past the pinion, especially to get the pin out, the ring gear would have to move all the way across. Not gonna happen.
My method was to loosen the ring gear bolts while still bolted up, remove the carrier, and as I unthreaded the bolts, I'd use a mallet or hammer to slowly drive the ring gear down by hitting the bolts like you tighten lug nuts, crossways.
FWIW, when I've needed to swap ring gears in my 10 bolts, I loosen the ring gear bolts while the carrier is still in the truck. With a worthless impact wrench, and no way to hold onto a rounded slippery piece of metal, it worked best to loosen them (they are reverse thread) while it was still in the vehicle. They are REALLY on there tight as far as I can tell, and I just couldn't grip the carrier enough to free them. You can rotate the carrier while its in the axle to reach all the bolts.
However, I never tried loosening the ring gear from the carrier while installed. I kinda doubt you will have much luck doing so, but picturing the carrier in my head, the ring gear teeth face the passenger side, and mesh with the pinion. To push the gear to the passenger side, which is the "removal side" (as I see it in my head) you'd have to get past the pinion, especially to get the pin out, the ring gear would have to move all the way across. Not gonna happen.
My method was to loosen the ring gear bolts while still bolted up, remove the carrier, and as I unthreaded the bolts, I'd use a mallet or hammer to slowly drive the ring gear down by hitting the bolts like you tighten lug nuts, crossways.
cegusman
3/4 ton status
Where do you get new ring gear bolts? How are the shims installed on a dana 44 3/4t?
steve85fla
Registered Member
http://www.differentials.com/
I have had good luck with these people. I put a mini-spool in my front 10 bolt this year Man!!!! talk about hard to steer!!!
In the mud it is great though. That site also has installation pictures/instructions I believe
I have had good luck with these people. I put a mini-spool in my front 10 bolt this year Man!!!! talk about hard to steer!!!
In the mud it is great though. That site also has installation pictures/instructions I believe
steve85fla
Registered Member
Oh yeah, dana 44 ring bolts are reverse thread!
cegusman
3/4 ton status
I now they are reverse thread,but where do you get them?
steve85fla
Registered Member
The clicky above
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>
How are the shims installed on a dana 44 3/4t
<hr></blockquote>
I finished my D60 last week. Imagine my surprise when there were NO shims (or so I thought). Then I found out the shims are between the bearing and the carrier. You can't loose them or screw them up without pressing off the bearings. As for where to get the bolts. Any shop that does gears can either sell you the bolts or tell you where to find them. Just grab the yellow pages and start calling.
How are the shims installed on a dana 44 3/4t
<hr></blockquote>
I finished my D60 last week. Imagine my surprise when there were NO shims (or so I thought). Then I found out the shims are between the bearing and the carrier. You can't loose them or screw them up without pressing off the bearings. As for where to get the bolts. Any shop that does gears can either sell you the bolts or tell you where to find them. Just grab the yellow pages and start calling.
