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relay switch for rear window

angelglo

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ive installed a rear power window for my 75. it worked great. i because of an accident, i replaced the rear with another one. now it goes really slow. i dont know what changed. from what i have read, i think it would help if i put on a relay. can someone show me a diagram as to what wires go where. im thinking that i will need two relays but im unsure. or can someone just tell me what wires go to which numbered teminals.

thanks in advance
angel
 
i put in a complete power tailgate and not just the glass
you said you put it in and it worked great. then an accident and put in another one and it runs slow.. tring to understand what happened to it to make it run slow.
 
Sounds like the motor in the replacement tailgate is going out. The rear tailgate circuit has a relay in line already from the factory. Get the motor and regulator out of the old tailgate and put them in the new one.
 
thanks for the replies. i made the lines and put in the switch myself as it is a 75 so i know it doesnt have a relay along with the power windows, locks, and power rear view mirrors. i did pull out the motor and regulator out yesterday and replaced it with the one in the old tailgate. it still goes slow. when i roll it up and down with a drill, it goes up and down fine so no binding. the battery is a new yellow top optima so the battery is not an issue. should a relay be put in all power accesories?
 
In the case of a rear window, a relay isn't going to help unless the switch is the limiting factor. For the most part switches shouldn't be subject to much load, the ones commonly used can't handle very much.

Again, short of the switch being the limiter, a relay is going to do nothing. You still have to run the larger gauge wire all the way to the back of the truck. A relay is typically used when you want to minimize the length of wiring that carries the load, or keep whatever you are using to control the relay from burning up.
 
I had a 1975 suburban and there is a factory relay. If you find where the wiring comes thru the firewall and trace from there, on mine the relay was mounted to the firewall right behind the brake booster on the drivers side.

And what dorian said is also correct.
 
So if there is a factory relay, which I don't doubt, it's used to keep the switch from burning up. Makes sense as those motors draw a fair amount.

In the case of wiring one up yourself then, you'd have the switch control the relay, and you could mount the relay wherever you want, since you've still got to run the load carrying wires the same distance.
 
ok. i troubleshooted the thing and found the problem. it was a combination of a couple of things. first, the thing rolled down real slow but also it didnt roll up at all. i pulled out a spare battery and tested the motor and it went up and down fine. i then moved to the connector that i made years ago under the truck and the same problem occured. i tracked it down to the wiring in the tailgate itself. the connector at the motor was gummed up with some tar like stuff. i cleaned it out and then it rolled down fine. i then bypassed the wire to roll it up and got it to work and now the switch works fine. thanks for then input. now i can start hauling my garbage without cawling to the crawl to the back and roll my window up and down.
 

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