Does anyone have a recommendation for a real simple ignition kill for an old carbuerated squarebody? I literally just want a switch hidden somewhere in ignition system that you switch on and off with a remote like a car alarm key fob. An alarm doesnt seem to be of much good on a full vert that will never have a top on it. Given how many alarms, immobilizers etc there are on amazon and the internet generally it's surprising there isnt one of these but there doesnt seem to be.
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Remote ignition kill
- Thread starter aceroth
- Start date
I think you are overthinking this. Don't need to buy anything special.
Pick a switch of your choice, interrupt the ign (or start) power wire from the key switch (in harness under dash at column, someone will chime in with color), and mount where you want it.
Start wire is probably a better choice, as it will keep running if you happen to flip the switch will driving, but wouldn't start.
Guys here have done all sorts of "hidden" versions of this. Some have hidden magnetic switches behind the dash, so their favorite fridge magnet has to be on the dash in the right place to start the truck. Some have wired it to turn signals, or lights, or whatever. You can also hide switches in teh console, under the dash, under hood, etc.
Good luck.
Mudslutk51984
Registered Member
I have a momentary switch hooked up so every time you get in you have to push it. I wanted it this way so that I wouldn’t forget to flip the Switch when I got out... tie it in DIRECT with your starter hot wire... can’t hot wire it and can’t even jump the solenoid with a screw driver.. even if you found where the momentary switch was you’d have to have a buddy with you to hold the switch while you jump the solenoid... even if you had the correct key that fits the ignition it won’t start...it’s me proof so I don’t forget to set it and theft proof...
Only bummer about an older square body that doesn't have a hood latch and cable inside the truck is anyone with a little knowledge and two hunks of wire with alligator clips can hot wire the coil and jump the solenoid and drive off.!
I used to fear my 72 K5 would vanish due to that when I lived in a not so great neighborhood..it had the ignition in the dash,so no locking steering colum..my '81 G-10 van is the same way..(and that could be hot wired from inside by taking the dog house off!)..on both vehicles,its not that hard to unplug the ignition switch and jump the socket that plugs onto it too..
If you do add a kill switch,keep in mind if you cut into the power wire for the ignition coil or starter solenoid ,the added length of wire and resistance of the switch could drop the voltage enough to not let the solenoid kick in,or get a full 12V to the ignition coil,and the module can fry if it gets low voltage..use thick wire,make good connections,and use a decent switch,not a plastic rocker or toggle that costs $1.99..
Years ago they sold car alarms with the "Yelp" siren that had the ability to be remote controlled with a key fob..
They did work,but when they failed,many mechanics were driven insane trying to hunt down why a vehicle wouldn't crank or run!.
My friend has lots of experience "deleting" those on auction bought cars,that didn't come with the remote,or the alarm box is junk
Often the printed circuit boards in them corroded and failed..
I think having it remotely controlled is much more complicated and liable to fail in the future..a simple hidden switch in the truck is usually sufficient..you just need to remember to use it before leaving the truck..
My truck's anti-theft device is the 6.2 diesel...if a thief can figure out how get that thing started,especially in winter--I'll give him an award!..
..
I used to fear my 72 K5 would vanish due to that when I lived in a not so great neighborhood..it had the ignition in the dash,so no locking steering colum..my '81 G-10 van is the same way..(and that could be hot wired from inside by taking the dog house off!)..on both vehicles,its not that hard to unplug the ignition switch and jump the socket that plugs onto it too..
If you do add a kill switch,keep in mind if you cut into the power wire for the ignition coil or starter solenoid ,the added length of wire and resistance of the switch could drop the voltage enough to not let the solenoid kick in,or get a full 12V to the ignition coil,and the module can fry if it gets low voltage..use thick wire,make good connections,and use a decent switch,not a plastic rocker or toggle that costs $1.99..
Years ago they sold car alarms with the "Yelp" siren that had the ability to be remote controlled with a key fob..
They did work,but when they failed,many mechanics were driven insane trying to hunt down why a vehicle wouldn't crank or run!.
My friend has lots of experience "deleting" those on auction bought cars,that didn't come with the remote,or the alarm box is junk
Often the printed circuit boards in them corroded and failed..
I think having it remotely controlled is much more complicated and liable to fail in the future..a simple hidden switch in the truck is usually sufficient..you just need to remember to use it before leaving the truck..
My truck's anti-theft device is the 6.2 diesel...if a thief can figure out how get that thing started,especially in winter--I'll give him an award!..
..Which wire are you calling the "HOT" wire? I'm thinking you mean from the ignition to the solenoid? Right or wrong?
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/anti-theft-1986-k5.334805/#post-3909544
most current thread we have had .
most current thread we have had .
Mudslutk51984
Registered Member
Yes. The one coming from the starter relay that goes to the solenoid can be interrupted between the relay and solenoid
Thanks. That's the wire I thought was being talked about.
One idea I had was to mount a push button on/off switch in the back (bottom) of the cigarette lighter. Pushing the lighter in would energize the switch (you'd have to pull it back out partway after pushing it in.) The switch would be hidden and not a likely place for a thief to look. To kill the electric you just push it in again to disable. You could even wire it so the lighter had to stay pushed in to run, or just gut the lighter and push the switch button with your finger. Only drawback is it's obvious if you have anyone in your truck.
euzoa
1/2 ton status
Put a relay inline with the ignition. You can run it as a hold to start if you jump from pin 87, back to 86, it will reset as soon as you key off
What type/amp relay would be needed to do this?
euzoa
1/2 ton status
I dont know the draw of the circuit, but it should be fairly low. A standard Bosch 30 amp should to the trick. And I was slightly off. You can either hold to start, or key switch on push and release, then start, that would act to latch the relay
