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remote solenoid

screamer

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May 22, 2006
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Walla Walla Washington
Got a question. By installing a ford starter solenoid, the only real changes are 1) larger wire for the "s" post, with a direct link to a full 12 volts. and 2) using the current wire that's attached to the "s" post to activate a relay/ solenoid. Is that right? If so, I should be able to leave the large battery wire hooked up as is, disconnect the "s" post wire to use to activae a relay, then run a "hot" from the battery to the relay then to the "s" post on the starter. Will that work and accomplish the same thing as using a ford solenoid?
 
No, you'll still have main power to the big lug of the starter, which is what your trying to eliminate..

All you'd be doing is moving where the "S", signal wire is fired from...


diagram3.jpg


boxin3.JPG
 
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Boy now I'm confused. From what I've read on here it seemed the problem stemmed from the voltage drop in the s wire after having to go through the the ignition switch and stuff. I don't know how to add a link but The site I found on google, the guy wired the solenoid so the gm solenoid was always hot just like now. Is it the fact that the battery wire gets hot that causes the problem?
 
Trust me, what I told you is correct... Pretty sure I've never seen someone say that in here...

And yes, the voltage loss is your main lead, not the S wire... all thats doing is firing a solenoid off.. 11v or 13, wont matter for that function... It's the juice coming to spin the starter that is the issue...

The other benefit just as important is getting the entire trucks power supply off of that starter lug.. corrosion, heat, fusable links, etc all highly problematic issues down in that area...

starter1.jpg
 
Put my solenoid on a few years ago and haven't had any issues.
Plus, it makes swapping out a starter a little quicker.

Later,
 
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