I've got a wheel stud that's become unseated. I was able to get off all lug nuts except for one, it was being a real PIA. It was taking everything I had with a breaker bar and barely turning, then the whole stud started turning. I've tried every tool I own to hold the stud while turning the lug nut, but now it's cuttin' time. Anybody ever do this and if so, what did you use? I'm sure others who haven't had to do this would know a good way to do it as well.. Can anybody offer me some advice here? Thanks alot.
CK5
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Removing(cutting?) messed up wheel stud..
- Thread starter TylerT
- Start date
readymix
3/4 ton status
If in the rear on a SF axle, just remove the shaft, drum, and wheel all attached then grind the stud away from the rear.
Rear FF axle is treated just as a front axle.....described below.....
If the front, then remove the wheel bearings and the rotor and wheel will come off attached. Grind the stud away in the same manner as the rear.
Rear FF axle is treated just as a front axle.....described below.....
If the front, then remove the wheel bearings and the rotor and wheel will come off attached. Grind the stud away in the same manner as the rear.
yah what he said!
I fogot we can pull these things apart from the outside. We used to get all kinds of different cars into the tire stores. Cheep grand Cherokees used to strip studs out all the time.
I fogot we can pull these things apart from the outside. We used to get all kinds of different cars into the tire stores. Cheep grand Cherokees used to strip studs out all the time.
I knew I shoulda given more info...I didn't wanna post this in the sheet metal rigs forum, I love the quick replies in the garage. It's a 92 3/4ton Suburban, front, drivers' side. I was just gonna try the ol sawzall tomorrow, but maybe somebody has some insight..
Might try....
I've had to snap off wheel studs that spun where the splines are,by using a long peice of pipe over a socket that fits snugly on the lug nut--,or an old 4 way lug wrench you dont care much about..but a 9/16" stud probably wont break!!..
I've drilled a few out,but it took forever to drill it enough so I could chisel it off...a "nut cracker" tool might work,IF it will fit over the lug nut...
I've had to snap off wheel studs that spun where the splines are,by using a long peice of pipe over a socket that fits snugly on the lug nut--,or an old 4 way lug wrench you dont care much about..but a 9/16" stud probably wont break!!..
I've drilled a few out,but it took forever to drill it enough so I could chisel it off...a "nut cracker" tool might work,IF it will fit over the lug nut...
83ZZ502_Jimmy
1/2 ton status
TylerT said:
You should be able to unbolt the unit bearing from the knuckle. (4 bolts i think)
Make sure to take the nut holding the halfshaft in place too.
ON edit, it make not be accessible until the rotor is off.. So you may have to cut the stud afterall.. You should replace that unit bearing while you're at it, and check the other side too.
John
randy88k5
1/2 ton status
I just went through this with my friends Br*nco. It was on the pass rear, It hada 9", so we couldnt get to the shaft retaining bolts to get the shaft out to grind it from the rear.
This method worked suprisingly well...
- Get grinder with smallest dia wheel.
- Grind stud and lug as far down to the wheel as possible
- Center punch the stud
- Use a drill with a large bit and drill that punch mark (this removes most of the tapered cone)
- Rock wheel and it should break free.
Took about 15 minutes...
This method worked suprisingly well...
- Get grinder with smallest dia wheel.
- Grind stud and lug as far down to the wheel as possible
- Center punch the stud
- Use a drill with a large bit and drill that punch mark (this removes most of the tapered cone)
- Rock wheel and it should break free.
Took about 15 minutes...
