Removing GM U-Joints

[TerryD]

Hey guys, I've been wanting to play around with YouTube a little, making some videos that show some of the random things I get into. Not really any good reason, just to play with it a bit. I was pulling apart my K5 front shaft to replace the joints and grind the stops and thought "what the heck, I'll film it and see how it is."

Thought I'd put it up here. Might help someone in the future and maybe you guys can give me some feed back on it.

 

[Joe In Montana]

Too much grease and dirt to tell for sure - but are these the u-joints that are retained by injected nylon? If so, beating the cr@p outta them is the hard way.

Just get your propane torch out and heat the individual strap areas - where straps would be if the full rings had a strap on them.

Heat them hot and make sure that the little nylon pip that sticks out does NOT point to anyone who doesn't want to get hit by flying hot nylon.

The cups should be heated individually - and supporting the cross like you did on the open jaws of a vice is a good way to knock them out.

But if you heat them one at a time, they are so easy to whack out and there's not deformed and mutilated yokes when you're done.

 

[TerryD]

It is the factory style u-joints that have the plastic holding the caps in. I've never had any issues with deformed yokes doing it this way but I'll give the propane a try next time I do one.

When I did the other half of the cv, one of the caps was already dislodged, I assume by over travel when flexing. The joints themselves show very little wear. It's a shame this thing is so rusty, it seems to have lived a very gentle life until it came into my possession.

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

Heat it up! till it spits out the little hole then beat the shit outta it lol