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Removing lift

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BlazerRico

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I recently bought a 1985 K5. It has been lifted by what I am guessing is about 4" judging from reading this site and looking at the suspension. The front springs curve upward which I have learned is not stock. The rear springs sit upon large rubber blocks that are about 4" thick. The front has the dual shocks which I understand can be replaced with one good one. The steering arm is probably an aftermarket item.

Since I don't intend to do any heavy off roading, the extra lift is just being wasted. In fact, it is a bit of a bother because it makes entry and exit more difficult as well as making looking under the hood a bit more difficult.

My thinking on removing the lift is the following. I can remove the blocks in the back and get new u-bolts and hardware. It doesn't appear that there was a bushing or cushion in the stock suspension. I am having difficulty verifying this. I am thinking of replacing the shocks here too for ride purposes.

I can replace the front springs with some stock height springs. I think I will have to replace the steering arm. Which is a royal pain because sourcing a stock height version is almost impossible. Is is possible the steering arm is stock? How do I tell?

I am still unclear as to which shock mounts I should use up front. I am thinking the inner most as these are the most vertical. This is from reading here and around the internet.

Does this seem like a reasonable approach? What am I missing?
 
Yes the rear can just have the blocks removed with new hardware as you say. You will need to replace the shocks too as they will be too long for stock ride height.
You'd have to post a photo of the steering arm. It could be stock and an angled drag link fitted or it could be lowered arm.
If your props hafts have been lengthened (unlikely but many do) they'll have to be shortened or replaced with stock units.
 
Depending on how it was done you might have to tie back longer brake lines. You may have to shorten the driveshaft.

Just possibility of doing the above
 
I have tried to compare my steering arm with pictures of the lifted ones online. I think I may still have a stock arm. Why they didn't just make spacers instead?

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

I am putting up a side shot. I see that the transfer case seems to sit pretty low. I don't know if there was a spacer or new brace installed. I am new to the K5 so my knowledge is limited by the internet still.
image.jpeg
 
Looks like a raised one to me. Truck sits quite nice as it is!
 
Sometimes it might be cheaper just to leave it the way it is as long as the lift was done right and all the angles are good. I wanted to to the same thing. My blazer had a 6" lift on it when I bought it. I thought everything was good with it but oh was I wrong. I had to choices either drop it down to stock or fix the issues with the lift. I just got done spending $2,000 on getting the lift done right. It would have cost almost just as much to drop it back down to stock. That is just my two cents.
 
The arm in the pics is a raised arm, didn't that year have two front shocks on each side from the factory? If the lift was done right there is a chance front and rear driveshafts have been lengthened. Stock length shocks will need to be installed front and rear. A lot of times the transfer case is spaced down for the lift to get the drivetrain angles right. If you put it back to stock height a front sway bar will improve handling. Depending on tire size you will need to downsize.
 
I wouldn't touch that lift. 4 inches is the perfect height and that truck looks awesome. For what it is and the moneys that's already been put into it with that lift, that lift is the best "over the counter, I want my truck lifted and I don't want to spend a fortune, 4wheelparts type shop can you do this for me, lift that can be done" and it doesn't look like a hack install its just old. If you think its too high and can't / don't want to live with it, then the reasonable thing to do would be to sell it like it is and buy something else that's lower. You need to understand the factory suspension even brand new is never gonna ride as well as that thing does now. The duel shocks help control the added weight of the front end. The difficulty of getting to stuff under the hood is offset immensely by the ease of getting to stuff under the truck and can be fixed with a crate to stand on. Which crate you will still need for some stuff even if you drop it down to stock height.

If I was gonna throw money into that thing to make it handle/ride better, first thing I'd do is replace all the shocks with new ones and grease every zerk on the truck. Then I'd check all the spring bushings and replace any worn ones. Next thing I'd do is replace the rear blocks with a shackle flip and the front shackles with heavy duty grease able ones. Then I'd do cross over steering and be done. All that and you could daily drive the crap outa that thing, when it snowed or floods happened you wouldn't have anything to worry about. you'd still fit in any parking garage mall or office and if you ever decided to 4wheel it you could comfortably do 90% of the stuff thats out there.
 
Rico, shocks have come a long way since our trucks were made. A decent nitrogen charged shock will out perform the stockers by a good margin. Long way of saying you don't need dual shocks up front.

I think your truck is perfect the way it is. That is the look I'm working towards for my Suburban.
 
Thanks everyone. It's mostly a matter of ease of entry. I think I need steps, to brace the steering box and put on some 35s.
 
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