Any tricks to getting the cones/spacers out from around the bolts. I got the nuts off them and the big nut off the tie rod. Can break them loose. Need some help. Need to get this off so I can finish installing my lift. Thanks
CK5
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Removing Pitman Arm
- Thread starter 91 Jimmy
- Start date
I think you're talking about the steering arm on the knuckle right? The pitman arm is the one on the steering head/box.
It's usually a pain, but basically hitting it downward with a big hammer where the arm curves will loosen them up, then you can try to spin them with a screw driver/hammer combo to loosen them up a bit more.
Just keep hitting things with a hammer basically.
It's usually a pain, but basically hitting it downward with a big hammer where the arm curves will loosen them up, then you can try to spin them with a screw driver/hammer combo to loosen them up a bit more.
Just keep hitting things with a hammer basically.
go to http://www.shakerbuilt.com/Products.html its the third picture over in the second row.
i spent hours trying to get mine out and i wasnt worried about using the studs i just wanted it off i was doing crossover... was able to airhammer one out and after sledge hammering the hell out of it between 3 people up and down i just torched everything off lol. try prayer
Yeah they go all the way through the arm to the knuckle. You won't break the studs if you just bang on the arm itself.
Here's Colby's thread back when he was removing his, it was the longest so I chose it.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163082
Just to clarify, you are talking about the arm on the steering knuckle correct?
Here's Colby's thread back when he was removing his, it was the longest so I chose it.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163082
Just to clarify, you are talking about the arm on the steering knuckle correct?
Yeah, that is the arm I am talking about. I've pretty much tried everything in that thread except I don't have a good torch. Just a crappy propane one and a mapp gas one. Not enough heat. Guess I'll just give it hell tomorrow with the sledge.
Yeah I tried a few different things with mine, but a BFH is what ended up getting the job done.
I just beat the thing for probably 30 mins and it didn't move at all. I can't even see a separation of the spacer and arm itself. Is heat my only other option? I've coated the thing in PB Blaster multiple times but no luck. If I leave this on will my steering suck. I'm doing a 4inch lift
Try hitting the arm from the sides where the drag link end goes into the hole. Rather than hitting it on top, hit the sides and it should help in breaking the cones loose.
I've done lots of these arms before. The quickest I've ever removed one from start to finish was somewhere like 6 minutes. BFH was the only answer. I've dealt with some stubborn ones, too, but never have lost a battle against them yet. I'd recommend to keep hitting with the BFH.
I've done lots of these arms before. The quickest I've ever removed one from start to finish was somewhere like 6 minutes. BFH was the only answer. I've dealt with some stubborn ones, too, but never have lost a battle against them yet. I'd recommend to keep hitting with the BFH.
Alright, I will try that. It is so rusted I don't know if I will ever knock them loose!
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Heres how I did it on my flattops. I found it surprisingly easy.
Soak it in PB blaster.
Hit the arm at end over the mounted surface then the other. Its machined tight so if you dont do this it can jam up.
Take a nut and thread it flush with the top of the stud. Smash the **** out of it. This is what broke them totally loose for me.
Take a screwdriver and "unthread" the washers off the studs.
Hit the arm at end over the mounted surface then the other.
Now if this doesnt work for you then liberally apply more pb blaster and use a MAPP gas torch. When applying heat remember your trying to expand the item thats stuck, aka the cone washer, not just heat everything up so put the tip of the flame on the cone washer the best you can.
HOW TO REMOVE STUDS.
O yeah and since the question is coming since your gonna need new studs my stud removal process went like this:
Double nut first stud. Cheap socket, ratchet, and LITERALLY a 5 foot cheater bar/piece of pipe.
Second nut went, crap those other nuts are stuck on. Put third nut on and weld it to stud. Bash a cheap socket onto it and repeat cheater bar.
For the third I was out of nuts so I took a larger nut and welded to the stud and broke it with the cheater.
My advice if you dont have a welder would be to goto the store and just buy 3 more nuts of the same thread so you can double nut them all.
If you do have a welder that just put one nut on each stud and tach them to the stud real good.
Soak it in PB blaster.
Hit the arm at end over the mounted surface then the other. Its machined tight so if you dont do this it can jam up.
Take a nut and thread it flush with the top of the stud. Smash the **** out of it. This is what broke them totally loose for me.
Take a screwdriver and "unthread" the washers off the studs.
Hit the arm at end over the mounted surface then the other.
Now if this doesnt work for you then liberally apply more pb blaster and use a MAPP gas torch. When applying heat remember your trying to expand the item thats stuck, aka the cone washer, not just heat everything up so put the tip of the flame on the cone washer the best you can.
HOW TO REMOVE STUDS.
O yeah and since the question is coming since your gonna need new studs my stud removal process went like this:
Double nut first stud. Cheap socket, ratchet, and LITERALLY a 5 foot cheater bar/piece of pipe.
Second nut went, crap those other nuts are stuck on. Put third nut on and weld it to stud. Bash a cheap socket onto it and repeat cheater bar.
For the third I was out of nuts so I took a larger nut and welded to the stud and broke it with the cheater.
My advice if you dont have a welder would be to goto the store and just buy 3 more nuts of the same thread so you can double nut them all.
If you do have a welder that just put one nut on each stud and tach them to the stud real good.
andyblack
Registered Loser
When I replaced my steering arm, I did just like you're doing and it didn't move at all, no matter how hard I hit it. Then I decided to try a method with more finesse: I put a chisel up against the side of the part of the cone washer that sticks up above the top of the arm and tapped the chisel lightly in a slightly upward direction (the way you want the washer to move). The cone washer came right up. I repeated this process for all three. Once they were off, I smacked the arm pretty good from underneath and it came off easily.
Those cone washers do a great job of holding the steering arm on. It's not coming off if the washers don't come off first. Try my trick - it will work.
