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Removing stock proportioning valve and new lines

Shawn

Shawn

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I'll be adding this Wilwood master/ hydrobooster to the K5 brakes (ignore wrong gold bracket). Has proportioning valve built into it along with brake warning sensor. Brakes are Dana 60 front discs, Eldo calipers/discs for rear 14 bolt.

SO.... I'll need to remove the stock prop. valve. When I do, I was thinking of just getting 3 adapters for the 3 lines. The Wilwood prop valve has two outlets for the front and one for rear. So two smaller -3AN (3/16) flexible lines to the fronts, and one -4AN (1/4) flexible line to the rear.

Another option is to T the fronts and run one -4AN 1/4" to the T but I'm worried about the smaller T not reaching the threads to each front line.

Would you do it any other different way? Also, not sure how the single stock brake warning wire will hook to the dual terminal.

For 87 K5, I'm assuming 3/8-24 front lines and 7/16-24 rear line


wilwoodmaster.jpg

brakefittings.jpg
 
I run the same wilwood prop valve off my OE master/booster.

Bought a roll of 3/16" hard line and ran to each front wheel individually and a single line to the rear with a "T" above the diff. I don't use the switch on the wilwood for the brake lights, I stuck with the OE switch on the pedal.
 
skunked said:
I run the same wilwood prop valve off my OE master/booster.

Bought a roll of 3/16" hard line and ran to each front wheel individually and a single line to the rear with a "T" above the diff. I don't use the switch on the wilwood for the brake lights, I stuck with the OE switch on the pedal.
Click to expand...

EDIT : READ POST BELOW FOR INFO !


that switch is not for brake lights . its the warning you lost a line light in the dash .

i installed my prop valve like this one and just plumbed the hard lines up to it as i was doing all new anyway .
 
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:thinking: never got that far . typical man i just install stuff and burn the directions . :rotfl:

seems kind of stupid to have that on the valve since most all factory stuff was a warning switch .
 
Damn it! Yep thats a pressure switch for your taillights. This upgrade crap really sucks sometimes.... Talked to a Wilwood tech and he had no idea how to wire up the OEM brake warning light so I'm going to have to figure it out or delete it from my brake setup which I'd rather not do. Looking at the diagrams, it requires a prop valve to work so it switches on when one side fails. Also I need to verify the thread size for the rear brakes (7/16-24 or 9/16-18). Hopefully the threads are not metric for 1987. Found a few pictures of the OEM valve. Last large pic is from my K5.

propvalve.jpg

propvalve2.jpg

propvalve3.PNG
propvalve4.jpg
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you needed to ditch or gut the combo valve once you go with an aftermarket prop valve? For the light, just remove the bulb from the cluster.
 
skunked said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you needed to ditch or gut the combo valve once you go with an aftermarket prop valve? For the light, just remove the bulb from the cluster.
Click to expand...
this wilwood valve does the same as gutting the stock unit ....... but gives you rear adjustment to dial in the bias front to rear all in 1 clean bolt on unit .
 
sweetk30 said:
this wilwood valve does the same as gutting the stock unit ....... but gives you rear adjustment to dial in the bias front to rear all in 1 clean bolt on unit .
Click to expand...

I understand what the wilwood does, I was referring to the OE combo valve being used WITH the aftermarket wilwood valve.
 
skunked said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you needed to ditch or gut the combo valve once you go with an aftermarket prop valve? For the light, just remove the bulb from the cluster.
Click to expand...

Removing the OEM prop. valve was the plan and still is. Just haven't done it yet. And yes I'll probably just have to remove the bulb from the cluster. I know some inspection states require that bulb to work but Colorado stop doing inspections years ago and now only focus on strict emissions. Its nice for safety in case you have front or rear line fail but not necessary. Just trying to avoid losing the warning light.

Appreciate the feedback everyone!
 
skunked said:
I understand what the wilwood does, I was referring to the OE combo valve being used WITH the aftermarket wilwood valve.
Click to expand...

Not sure if thats possible even trying to gut it and it still works as it should with the switch. The stock prop. valve was meant to be used ask disk/drum thus the biggest reason to upgrade to disk/disk adj prop valve.
 
skunked said:
I understand what the wilwood does, I was referring to the OE combo valve being used WITH the aftermarket wilwood valve.
Click to expand...
why leave a dead item in line that does nothing ? unless your specifically using a inline adjustable valve only and NOT a combo valve like the o.p. or my self has used .
 
sweetk30 said:
why leave a dead item in line that does nothing ? unless your specifically using a inline adjustable valve only and NOT a combo valve like the o.p. or my self has used .
Click to expand...

I understood the original post as if he was trying to use both, that's all.
 
On my truck if I unplug the brown/tan wire going to the sensor on the prop valve it shuts the light off in the cluster..

I couldn't get the light to go off and stay off after multiple bleeding attempts,so its likely the prop valve dewhickey is not centering itself ,and I was not willing to mess with it--I just wanted the light off so it would pass inspection..the cluster light still works when the E-brake is applied..

Brakes work fine,so I don't care about the warning light--it only gives you a warning AFTER the brakes fail on one circuit anyways..
 
skunked said:
I understood the original post as if he was trying to use both, that's all.
Click to expand...
Sorry should have been more clear the stocker was coming out. I have the picture of it still mounted so I'd assume the same. Appreciate your input on this!

diesel4me said:
On my truck if I unplug the brown/tan wire going to the sensor on the prop valve it shuts the light off in the cluster..

I couldn't get the light to go off and stay off after multiple bleeding attempts,so its likely the prop valve dewhickey is not centering itself ,and I was not willing to mess with it--I just wanted the light off so it would pass inspection..the cluster light still works when the E-brake is applied..

Brakes work fine,so I don't care about the warning light--it only gives you a warning AFTER the brakes fail on one circuit anyways..
Click to expand...
Ok cool. If I can just unplug it and still have the e-brake light that would be nice. As long as I have kick ass brakes which I better after adding this expensive ported hydroboost/Wilwood setup.
 
Found a site that had the correct sizes for stock proportioning valve which matches pictures above. Having a hard time finding a single 9/16-18 to -4AN adapter. Might have to do two adapters at the rear brake line.

Bottom Front Port: 3/8"-24 IFF threads - goes to one front brake
Top Front Port: 3/8"-24 IFF threads - goes to one front brake
Middle Top Port: 1/2"-20 IFF threads - comes from master cylinder
Rear Top Port: 7/16"-24 IFF threads - comes from the master cylinder
Rear Most Port: 9/16"-18 IFF threads - goes to rear brakes
 
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