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Removing the front drive shaft? benefits ?

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K5_Fla

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I was thinking about removing my front drive shaft. The closest thing my truck see’s to “off road” is dirt roads…nothing my 35 swampers can’t handle in 2 wheel drive.

I know the front drive shaft spins a little bit when on the highway ( 2 wheel drive mode) from the “residual” power coming from the NP 205 transfer case. I’m thinking by removing the drive shaft it could help things run smoother, quicker and probably help a little with MPG...becasue I know nothing is turning in the front ???

Your thoughts?
 
K5_Fla said:
I know the front drive shaft spins a little bit when on the highway ( 2 wheel drive mode) from the “residual” power coming from the NP 205 transfer case.
Click to expand...

My 205 front shaft doesn't spin in 2wd. Do you not have locking hubs in the front? If your shaft is turning, you may have a bad hub that's rubbing and causing the shaft to turn.
 
i have locking hubs. I'm not talking about a constant spin... just some residual. I have heard a little turning is normal… can someone confirm?
 
K5_Fla said:
i have locking hubs. I'm not talking about a constant spin... just some residual. I have heard a little turning is normal… can someone confirm?
Click to expand...
No it normally shouldn't, if it does something in the case is not completely disengaged, that could happen if the shift rails are worn sometimes.
 
Some will spin and some won't. Its actually more a case of friction from the grease in the hub turning the axles than from the transfer case.

I doubt very seriously that you will see any difference. It will remove a couple of pounds of weight, and the axles will spin free er, but there is not enough load there to matter.
You might take the guts out of the hubs at the same time to stop the axles.

About the only thing that will help gas mileage is getting the most efficient size tires for your gears, and perhaps switching to synthetic lubes in the transfer case and rear end.

I know folks say that synthetic does not make that much difference to gas mileage, but running standard 85W-90 in my 205, it gets so hot during highway travel, I would not want to touch it.
I switched to the same weight Amsoil, and it only gets warm.
I had to burn gas to make that heat.
 
Fordum,

What you said is exactly what I have heard in the past…. A little spin in normal. Sounds like it’s not worth the trouble to remove it - so I’ll leave it alone.

You said “””running standard 85W-90 in my 205, it gets so hot during highway travel, I would not want to touch it””

I was thinking about this just the other day. I went on a 100 mile highway drive. Got home and was looking under the truck… touched the 205 case and it was as hot as a hell… like a stove. I started thinking… is this normal? I guess so since I’m running 85/90. Maybe I’ll look into Amsoil. Which weight are you running in the 205 ?
 
I'm running the same weight in Amsoil as regular. As to how much, not a clue. Someone here will know for sure, I just get a gallon or so and do my 205 and rear and front ends.

That heat is one of the main reasons the car makers went to chain drives. Chains have less friction and give better gas mileage.
Its also the reason that they started changing the specs for the later 205s from 85W-90 to ATF.
It takes less power to spin gears in ATF than the thick stuff.
Of course, helical cut gears don't like ATF as much, but as long as it got out of warranty they were happy.
In their defense, the gears in a 205 are so big and thick, the added wear is not too noticeable.
There are 205s out there that have plenty of miles on them with ATF. I don't know of any comparisons done at tear-down, but maybe some one here has some data.
 
If there is enough drag in the hubs or the case to turn the driveshaft - removing the shaft will not eliminate that fluid coupling. This should mean less kinetic energy and more heat - not necessarily more efficiency. I don't think you'll see the difference on a 2 1/2 ton pile of steel jacked up on big tires.

If you want to go down that path, convert it to 2WD. Ditching the front axle for the 2WD parts and getting rid of the transfer case will drop several hundred pounds. But unless you will lower it and drag race or something, it just seems wrong.
 
I had my front shaft out for a little bit on my first K5 after I did my lift because the slip joint was frozen up and I needed a new driveshaft. When I took it out I didn't notice much difference in gas mileage, but I did notice a huge difference in turning ability. It was much easier to turn the wheel in parking lots and on the road. My Dad sees the same thing on his 98 burb, and goes so far as to pull the front shaft every summer and put it back in in the winter. He claims he sees some gas mileage improvement and the same improvement in steering.
 
I'm going to remove the front tires soon, run on the rims so that it has alot less rolling resistance and turns easier as well (at the steering wheel), just thought i'd share this idea too.....
 
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Buy a $500 commuter car and throw it away when it needs a major repair. The dual vehicle discount will probably all but cover the cost of insuring it.
 
Just take the body off. That thing must weigh a ton. Much bigger tires possible, as well.

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