LargeMouthFeaver
Registered Member
I no the top comes off. But whats the odds of it not going bac on right? Do these trucks have a tendency to twist and leak with the top removed?
CK5
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Removing the hardtop on 88 k5 blazer and simaler years
- Thread starter LargeMouthFeaver
- Start date
CHEVYDADDY
1/2 ton status
leake not really. i only had my k5 for a couple months and had have tope of many times no leaks! would like to redo the weather striping before winter really hits but it is really old so its time for it. the tops are really solid they dont have any flex or twist to them. would sugget two people take it off i have scares on the truck were i try being the man the first time. if you have a garage there is another thread that has a easy good idea to life it up from above. but i dont so two people really help.
h0wl0ngcanitbe
1/2 ton status
I remove mine every year and never have a problem with them leaking and i live in seattle wa, it rains alot here. you just have to be careful not to damage the weather striping. but even if you do like i did, for me it hasnt been a problem.
every frigging k5 i ever owned
even my current one has like 36,000 miles and when i went to put the top back on the first time i took it off thewindow wouldnt roll up in the back cause it was running into the weather stripping, couldnt get it lined up no matter what i tried.. had to reverse one of the tailgate latches now the tailgate sticks out like 1/2 inch on one side but the window goes up now
Kenny78
1/2 ton status
every frigging k5 i ever owned
I am curious if this common for any one else? How hard do you wheel and what part of the country are you in?
i have had 7 k5's though the years and the tricks i have found are 1) make sure the top seals are in good shape (ano brainer) 2) when putting it back on start all the bolts in first, then tighten the horizontal bolts (the ones that go into the cab) first and i even start in the center and work my way out and down. this way you are pulling it forward before you tighten the bedside bolts. i have never had any leaking problems with any of them by doing it this way.
I do it this way also, never had any leaks at the cab/bedsides. The tailgate leaks like a mofo though. Not sure where, I'm getting a good seal with the glass. But when I wash it or it's raining real hard the rear carpet gets wet.
CHEVYDADDY
1/2 ton status
this way works for great for me also after putting the topper on the truck as close to the cab as i can i like to get in and use my back to raise the topper to go over the cab seal and get it tight against the cab. start with the 4 top bolts and so on my manual window goes up fine.
buffblazer
1/2 ton status
every frigging k5 i ever owned
ya know my tailgate on the driver side sticks out about that much also, im the only one to ever have the top off and i dont belive the hinges have ever been flipped
thats and odd one there
one other tip i forgot to mention, it is a good idea to lube up the seals to keep them from sticking to each other and tearing. i use vasoline on them and it seems to do the trick. just a light coating when i take off the top or at least before you reinstall it.
Use dielectric grease. It lasts longer and is what is recommended for seals anymore. Vaseline works, but melts off with any sort of heat.
Problem with these is the seals. If the tops never been off, they are typically either dry rotted or stuck to the sealing surfaces, and tear, or simply don't have enough resiliency to seal once mated back together. The front top to cab or cab to top seals (there are two) don't typically visibly leak, since the inner one never sees any sun. The outer one can leak, but as long as the inner seal and the bedrail seal (something that looks like a butyl rubber strip) are intact, it won't leak inside. If the butyl rubber seal fails, the water will come in behind the b-pillar and under the back of the carpeted bedside covers.
The tops are pretty stout, when they bend it's because the truck body twists, not from removing the tops.
I believe the GM procedure is to start with the front most bolts as described, then work your way back. IIRC it's in the owners manual?
Problem with these is the seals. If the tops never been off, they are typically either dry rotted or stuck to the sealing surfaces, and tear, or simply don't have enough resiliency to seal once mated back together. The front top to cab or cab to top seals (there are two) don't typically visibly leak, since the inner one never sees any sun. The outer one can leak, but as long as the inner seal and the bedrail seal (something that looks like a butyl rubber strip) are intact, it won't leak inside. If the butyl rubber seal fails, the water will come in behind the b-pillar and under the back of the carpeted bedside covers.
The tops are pretty stout, when they bend it's because the truck body twists, not from removing the tops.
I believe the GM procedure is to start with the front most bolts as described, then work your way back. IIRC it's in the owners manual?
