santana
1/2 ton status
Besides soaking it with penetrating oil and beating the crap out of it with a BFH is there another trick to removing it off the knuckle? 
CK5
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Removing the steering arm
- Thread starter santana
- Start date
i have been trying for 3days straight, im done w/ my lift kit except for the new steering arm. its really annoying, i guess everyone on here has told me there are concial(spelling?) washers that go down on the 3studs, in a shape of a cone and if you hit upwards it only gets harder to get off. if you find out a way tell me, im having a friend whos a heavy machine mechanic help me out on this one.. its so stuborn, goodluck.
santana
1/2 ton status
Yeah I've been soaking it for 2 days and beating down on it till I cant feel my fingers and it won't budge. There's gotta be another way.stockk5 said:
some people were saying that the washer will spin out, they are basically threaded on, im thinking if you can somehow clamp onto them and twist them somehow it might work. these guys seem to have some good tips.. i asked the same question few days ago.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=58503
http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=58503
I have never used any type of penetratrating oil and have never had to swing my 2 pound ball peen hammer more than a dozen times to remove a steering arm. Maybe you guys swing a hammer like a girl? 
There is no other trick than to hit it real hard a couple inches from where the draglink was attached. Do you have the axle supported firmly? If the jackstands are under the frame and the axle is hanging in the air from the springs it will be difficult to remove the arm.
There is no other trick than to hit it real hard a couple inches from where the draglink was attached. Do you have the axle supported firmly? If the jackstands are under the frame and the axle is hanging in the air from the springs it will be difficult to remove the arm.
I used a 5 foot breaker bar as a heavy wedge and hit the hell out of it with the BFH. The breaker bar weight about 40 pounds. Had it from some concrete work. They are about $20 at Lowes. Took it off quickly after we waisted an hour of beating with the BFH. The wedge (and weight) was the trick, just be careful not to drive it into the threads. One of the guys helping me tried a wood splitting wedge, but it was hard to get the angle right.
BURBicon
Registered Member
Mr nice guy is right.
When you get the truck up in the air as high as you can to do the lift, you take the tires off the fron axle and drop that sucker on the ground so that you can take a good swing at it. I've done a couple and you pretty much wack'em on top and on the side a few times and they'll fall off in your hands. Like Mr Nice Guy says "no lube needed".
When you get the truck up in the air as high as you can to do the lift, you take the tires off the fron axle and drop that sucker on the ground so that you can take a good swing at it. I've done a couple and you pretty much wack'em on top and on the side a few times and they'll fall off in your hands. Like Mr Nice Guy says "no lube needed".
this just gets more frustrating learning you guys are taking it off with no effort, i have about a 5lb sludge, w/ a 2ft handle and my axel is suppored with a jack and jackstand, i am taking huge swings basically right where the drag link attaches to try and get it to break loose. yet it doesnt move.
joeshmo473
Registered Member
its easy, not
ok use WD-40 and soak it very well, wait a day, then torque the three bolts down as tight as you can, impact wrench is best, i torqued mine to something like 300 lbs. ok well the rust has prob. broken by now, now whack the hell out of it with a hammer, and then if that doesnt work heat it up and whack the hell out of, it will get really loud when the sleaves losen up, they arent washers they are cone shaped sleaves, and pull these out with big pliers
ok use WD-40 and soak it very well, wait a day, then torque the three bolts down as tight as you can, impact wrench is best, i torqued mine to something like 300 lbs. ok well the rust has prob. broken by now, now whack the hell out of it with a hammer, and then if that doesnt work heat it up and whack the hell out of, it will get really loud when the sleaves losen up, they arent washers they are cone shaped sleaves, and pull these out with big pliers
crawford
1/2 ton status
Sometimes they come off easy sometimes they don't. Another thing you can try is putting a punch on the crack in the conical washer and trying to spin it around. That's what I had to do to get one of the steering arms off my axle. The other two had come loose, but the third one wouldn't budge. We had to get it moving a little before the arm would come off.
pauly383
Daddy383
Thats an AZ truck right ??? It took a few whacks with a bfh and Jeff got mine right off . I know when I removed it again to swap to lower axles I had to work the cone washers off with a screwdriver in the split 
stockk5 said:
Look at the conical washers, can you see if any of them appear to be loose? If they are you can twist them out with a Channel Locks. I live in the rust belt and don't use any lube and get 'em off with a 2 LB. ball peen hammer. I am a small guy (130 lbs.) and can't swing a big hammer fast enough. Maybe try a smaller hammer? Swing it real hard and keep force on it the whole way through the swing; not just enough to get it going. I can have have kinetic energy from swinging a small hammer fast than a big hammer slow.
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with the conical washers i can see the lil split in them, they loosen left correct? no wierd stuff going on there? ill give it a try tmarow and see if a hammer with screw driver in that crack works, thanks for more tips.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
my method
The best method i have found is to swing the hamer horizontally from the front of the truck to the back and hit the arm at the "peak" of the Ulike if this "U" was the arm atatched to the knuckle, you would hit the bottom of the U. does that make sence? That seems to work realy well for me. So not from the top or the bottom but from the front of the truck....good luck
The best method i have found is to swing the hamer horizontally from the front of the truck to the back and hit the arm at the "peak" of the Ulike if this "U" was the arm atatched to the knuckle, you would hit the bottom of the U. does that make sence? That seems to work realy well for me. So not from the top or the bottom but from the front of the truck....good luck
i love torches, a friend came over w/ his oxy/cedaline torch and cut into it, which allowed it to loosen up and we got it off finally, even after we got the conical washers out we still had to hit it w/ a hammer just to break it loose from the rust, crazy stuff, thanks for all the tips everyone!
